195 research outputs found

    Scritti in onore di Pietro Ciarlo

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    Scritti in onore del professore Pietro Ciarlo. Si tratta di tre tomi contenenti oltre duemila pagine e decine di contributi sui principali temi di ricerca del professore Ciarlo

    Ecogeomorphology and vulnerability in a Mediterranean ria-type coast (La Maddalena Archipelago, NE Sardinia, western Mediterranean)

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    This paper presents a map describing the main geomorphological and sedimentological features, hydrodynamics, benthic habitat distributions and human impact on the coastal and marine areas of the Archipelago of La Maddalena (NE Sardinia, western Mediterranean). This cartography is based on an interdisciplinary sea-land approach, with the aim being to support sustainable and successful beach management in the face of a changing climate and environment, thereby contributing to the achievement of the Agenda 2030 Sustainable Development Goals (13, 14 and 15). In the Main Map (1:14,000 scale), the static and dynamic features of the beach systems and adjacent inner shelf are divided into thematic sections that include the geomorphological elements, hydrodynamics, sedimentological distributions, benthic habitat (mainly Posidonia oceanica meadow) and anthropogenic impacts. The map establishes a fundamental, multidisciplinary benchmark that is able to provide substantial scientific support to policymakers in relation to future vulnerability-assessment activities and the definition of land-management strategies

    Data on coastal dunes vulnerability of eleven microtidal wave-dominated beaches of Sardinia (Italy, western Mediterranean)

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    This article contains data about the values of the Dune Vulnerability Index (DVI) and the Partial Index Vulnerability (IVp) of eleven coastal dune systems located in Sardinia (Italy, western Mediterranean). Specifically, we present the values of 59 variables that summarize the condition of the studied dune systems, clustered in five groups: Geomorphological Condition (GCD), Marine Influence (MI), Aeolian Influence (AI), Vegetation Condition (VC), and Human Effects (HE). Data were collected during numerous field surveys and using aerial-photos. This dataset can be useful to evaluate the coastal dune vulnerability of several Sardinian beaches in order to drive local coastal managers towards an efficient management

    An operational wave system within the monitoring program of a Mediterranean beach

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    This work assesses the performance of an operational wave system in theMediterranean Sea by comparing computed data with measurements collected at different water depths. Nearshore data measurements were collected through a field experiment carried out at Poetto beach (Southern Sardinia, Italy) during spring 2017. In addition to coastal observations, we use intermediate and deep water wave data measured by two buoys: one situated North-West of Corsica and the other in the Gulf of Lion. The operational wave system runs once a day to predict the wave evolution up to five days in advance. We use a multi-grid approach in which a large grid extends over the entire Mediterranean basin and a fine grid covers the coastal seas surrounding the islands of Sardinia and Corsica. The comparison with measurements shows that the operational wave system is able to satisfactorily reproduce the wave evolution in deep and intermediate waters where the relative error of the significant wave height is 17%. The error exceeding 25% in coastal waters suggests that the use of a finer grid and the coupling with an atmospheric model able to catch local effects is advisable to accurately address nearshore wave processes driven by coastal wind forcing

    Geomorphological processes of a Mediterranean Urbanized Beach (Sardinia, Gulf of Cagliari)

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    In this study, we present a comprehensive map of a microtidal wave-dominated beach system based on an interdisciplinary sea–land approach and with the purpose of supporting a sustainable and successful beach management. The study area is located in a highly urbanized/industrialized coastal sector of the W side of Cagliari Gulf (S Sardinia, W Mediterranean). In the Main Map (1:15,000 scale), static and dynamic features of the beach system and adjacent inner shelf are divided into thematic sections, including geomorphological elements, bathymetry, sedimentological distribution, benthic habitat (mainly Posidonia oceanica meadow), hydrodynamics and anthropogenic features. The map constitutes an example of multidisciplinary benchmark to allow for long-term planning and management of this highly urbanized beach system. It is able to provide a substantial scientific support to policy-makers towards environmental restoration and sustainable development

    The use of genetic programming to develop a predictor of swash excursion on sandy beaches

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    We use genetic programming (GP), a type of machine learning (ML) approach, to predict the total and infragravity swash excursion using previously published data sets that have been used extensively in swash prediction studies. Three previously published works with a range of new conditions are added to this data set to extend the range of measured swash conditions. Using this newly compiled data set we demonstrate that a ML approach can reduce the prediction errors compared to well-established parameterizations and therefore it may improve coastal hazards assessment (e.g. coastal inundation). Predictors obtained using GP can also be physically sound and replicate the functionality and dependencies of previous published formulas. Overall, we show that ML techniques are capable of both improving predictability (compared to classical regression approaches) and providing physical insight into coastal processes

    The role of hydrodynamic forcing, sediment transport processes and bottom substratum in the shoreward development of Posidonia oceanica meadow

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    This paper investigates the combined role of hydrodynamic forcing, sediment transport processes and sea bottom features in determining the location of the meadow upper limit of the endemic Mediterranean seagrass Posidonia oceanica. For this purpose, an approach including extreme wave analysis and numerical modelling is applied to two sandy beach systems located in southern Sardinia (Italy). Information about bathymetry, P. oceanica meadow extension and bottom features has been made available by previous published studies. Based on the 30-year long NOAA hindcast dataset, a wave climate analysis is carried out to identify the incoming storm wave conditions (1 year return period) to be simulated with the Delft3D model package. The simulation results extend the current knowledge highlighting the importance of wave-induced hydrodynamic parameters as limiting factors for the survival of P. oceanica meadows. In particular, the results suggest that on sandy sub- strata the meadow upper limit lies well offshore of the surf zone, in areas with little morphological activity, where the wave orbital velocities associated to storms are on the order of 0.8 m/s and the mean current magnitude does not exceed 0.5 m/s. On rocky bottoms, the P. oceanica meadow can extend up to the outer surf zone of storms and is thus able to colonize shallow areas subject to stronger hydrodynamic forcings than those observed on sand. This difference in the plant tolerance to wave forcing depending on the substratum type shows how both hydrodynamic and geological factors play a key role in defining the environmental conditions for the development of seagrass meadows

    An Assessment of Swash Excursion Predictors using Field Observations

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    Accurate predictions of swash excursion are fundamental for improving the understanding of swash zone dynamics and for coastal management and hazard applications. Researchers have provided several formulas for predicting the swash excursion on sandy beaches. However, the problem of the universality of these formulas is still open. In fact, it is not clear whether the existing formulations are applicable to a wide range of beaches and wave conditions. This study verifies 13 existing swash (total, incident and infragravity) formulations using 13 published experiments (636 swash measurements). The experiments were carried out on beaches worldwide (dissipative intermediate and reflective) under a wide range of wave conditions (including extreme events). Results show that formulas behave differently with under and over prediction. However, some trends can be recognized, which are indeed critical for coastal hazards and management applications: generally, for large swash events (swash >1.5 m) large scatter are found for all formulas. During extreme conditions (swash>2.5 m) total and incident swash are strongly underestimated, while infragravity swash varies for each formula. The maximum errors and the root mean square errors can exceed 2.5 m and 1 m, respectively

    Assessing the performance of an operational wave system within a Mediterranean beach monitoring programme

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    This work assesses the performance of an operational wave system in the Mediterranean Sea by comparing computed data with nearshore and deep water measured datasets. Nearshore data measurements were collected through a field experiment carried out at Poetto beach (Southern Sardinia, Italy) during April and May 2017. In addition to coastal observations, we use deep water wave data measured by a wave buoy in the Gulf of Lion. During the period of the experiment, an operational system including an atmospheric and a wave model ran once a day to predict the wave evolution out to 5 days in advance. We used a multi-grid approach in which a large grid extended over the entire Mediterranean basin and a fine grid covered the coastal seas surrounding the island of Sardinia. The comparison between simulations and measurements show that the operational wave system is able to satisfactorily reproduce the evolution of the significant wave height in deep waters where the relative error was 17%. The error exceeding 25% in coastal waters suggests that the use of a finer grid is advisable to accurately address nearshore wave transformation processes and wave generation driven by local meteorological forcing
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