Fashion micro-enterprises in London, Berlin, Milan

This report provides an account of a series of interviews, observational visits and hosted events with 8-10 fashion designers in three cities: London, Berlin and Milan, carried out from 2012-2016. In some cases we interviewed the same designers two or three times over a period of nearly three years. The research project also entailed documented conversations and meetings with a range of fashion experts, consultants, legal advisors and policy makers in each city. Often these took place within the context of organised events undertaken as part of the research process. The aim was to investigate the kind of start-ups or micro-enterprises which have come into being in the last decade. We were interested in whether these were the outcome of pro-active urban creative economy policies or if they were self-organised initiatives, a reaction to the crisis of the euro-zone of 2008 and the consequent recession. Was it the case that long-term austerity policies and exceptionally high rates of youth and graduate unemployment across Europe had spawned these kinds of seemingly independent economic activities? We were also minded to consider the role of intellectual property (IP) and copyright in fashion as part of the wider UK government agenda for growth and wealth creation within the creative economy as a whole

Is a combination of varenicline and nicotine patch more effective in helping smokers quit than varenicline alone? A randomised controlled trial

This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited

E‐cigarette support for smoking cessation: Identifying the effectiveness of intervention components in an on‐line randomized optimization experiment

Aims, Design and Setting The aim of this study was to determine which combination(s) of five e-cigarette-orientated intervention components, delivered on-line, affect smoking cessation. An on-line (UK) balanced five-factor (2 × 2 × 2 × 2 × 2 = 32 intervention combinations) randomized factorial design guided by the multi-phase optimization strategy (MOST) was used. Participants A total of 1214 eligible participants (61% female; 97% white) were recruited via social media. Interventions The five on-line intervention components designed to help smokers switch to exclusive e-cigarette use were: (1) tailored device selection advice; (2) tailored e-liquid nicotine strength advice; (3): tailored e-liquid flavour advice; (4) brief information on relative harms; and (5) text message (SMS) support. Measurements The primary outcome was 4-week self-reported complete abstinence at 12 weeks post-randomization. Primary analyses were intention-to-treat (loss to follow-up recorded as smoking). Logistic regressions modelled the three- and two-way interactions and main effects, explored in that order. Findings In the adjusted model the only significant interaction was a two-way interaction, advice on flavour combined with text message support, which increased the odds of abstinence (odds ratio = 1.55, 95% confidence interval = 1.13–2.14, P = 0.007, Bayes factor = 7.25). There were no main effects of the intervention components. Conclusions Text-message support with tailored advice on flavour is a promising intervention combination for smokers using an e-cigarette in a quit attempt

Magazine and reader constructions of 'metrosexuality' and masculinity: a membership categorisation analysis

Since the launch of men's lifestyle magazines in the 1980s, academic literature has predominantly focused on them as a cultural phenomenon arising from entrepreneurial and commercial initiatives and/or as cultural texts that proffer representations of masculinity such as 'new lad' and 'new dad'. This paper steps aside from the focus on culture and, instead, treats magazine content as a discursive space in which gender and sexuality are oriented to, negotiated, and accomplished within and beyond the magazine itself (i.e. through readers' responses). Specifically, membership categorisation analysis is deployed to explore how the relatively new (and perhaps alternative) category for men - 'metrosexual' - is presented and received. Our analysis suggests that masculinity concerns are central in debates about 'metrosexuality', with self-identified 'metrosexuals' invoking heterosexual prowess and self-respect on the one hand, and critics (e.g. selfidentified 'real men') lamenting 'metrosexuality' for its perceived effeminacy and lack of authenticity on the other. Implications for understanding contemporary masculinities are discussed

Tailored interventions to assist smokers to stop smoking using e-cigarettes (TASSE): Study protocol [version 3]

Background: T here is increasing evidence that e-cigarettes (EC) are an effective smoking cessation aid when combined with behavioural support. T here is further evidence for digital tailored interventions as cost effective approaches that can increase smoking cessation rates. Experimental work also suggests the addition of a ‘nicotine fact sheet’ can improve smokers’ risk perceptions related to EC. However, multifaceted approaches to deliver ‘tailored advice’ for smoking cessation combining various key evidenced based components are lacking. T he aim of this study is to use a Multiphase Optimisation Strategy (MOST ) to determine which of five, or a combination thereof, EC-orientated intervention components is associated with self-reported cessation over the previous 4-weeks at 12-week follow-up. Methods/Design: T his online study will utilise a 2x2x2x2x2 factorial design resulting in 32 experimental conditions. T he five intervention components will be: 1: tailored advice on EC device; 2: tailored advice on e-liquid nicotine strength; 3: tailored advice on eliquid flavour; 4: e-cigarette written information; 5: text message support. A sample of N=1184 adult, UK resident smokers will be randomly allocated to one of the 32 conditions, which will be permutations of the 5 components (counter-balanced). T he primary outcome is 4 weeks of self-reported complete abstinence at 12 weeks post randomisation. Secondary outcomes are 7-day point prevalence, 50% reduction in baseline cigarettes smoked per day, time to switch and adherence to recommendation. T he primary analysis will be by intent-to-treat with the assumption that missing equals smoking. Logistic regression will be used to model the five main effects and the ten 2x2 interactions. A number of secondary analyses will also be conducted including models adjusting for demographic and smoking indices and including only those who received the intervention. Discussion: T o date, components that assist quitting by use of EC or other aids have largely been studied in isolation. T his study presents the first attempt to combine evidenced based interventions, using the MOST method, to test which components are associated with quitting. T he findings will be used to inform which components to include and their estimated effect sizes for a definitive randomised controlled trial (RCT ) to examine the efficacy of the intervention compared with usual care (own choice and no support)

Pseudotumors in association with well-functioning metal-on-metal hip prostheses: a case-control study using three-dimensional computed tomography and magnetic resonance imaging.

Many papers have been published recently on the subject of pseudotumors surrounding metal-on-metal hip resurfacing and replacement prostheses. These pseudotumors are sterile, inflammatory lesions within the periprosthetic tissues and have been variously termed masses, cysts, bursae, collections, or aseptic lymphocyte-dominated vasculitis-associated lesions (ALVAL). The prevalence of pseudotumors in patients with a well-functioning metal-on-metal hip prosthesis is not well known. The purpose of this study was to quantify the prevalence of pseudotumors adjacent to well-functioning and painful metal-on-metal hip prostheses, to characterize these lesions with use of magnetic resonance imaging, and to assess the relationship between their presence and acetabular cup position with use of three-dimensional computed tomography

Assessment of the Thermal Degradation of Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate Using Predictive Isoconversional Kinetics and a Temperature-Resolved Analysis of Evolved Gases

Sodium lauroyl isethionate is a popular, milder alternative to traditional soaps and surfactants in personal care formulations. Product performance, efficiency, color, and odor, however, can be compromised by thermal degradation at elevated manufacturing temperatures. Prediction of isothermal degradation rates in both air and N2 for a range of process conditions are determined using the Friedman isoconversional method. The thermal degradation levels in air are found to be 28 times higher than those in N2 over 5 h at 240 °C. Manufacturing under inert conditions, with maximum temperatures of 250 °C, is therefore necessary to avoid degradation levels significantly greater than 1 wt %. Using TGA-FTIR, the evolved gases from the degradation of sodium lauroyl isethionate are identified to be water, carbon dioxide, carbon disulfide, sulfur dioxide, as well as alkyl and carbonyl species. The ensuing temperature-dependent analysis can be used to minimize evolution of undesirable or hazardous gases in isethionate manufacturing processes

Beyond 'Global Production Networks': Australian Fashion Week's Trans-Sectoral Synergies

When studies of industrial organisation are informed by commodity chain, actor network, or global production network theories and focus on tracing commodity flows, social networks, or a combination of the two, they can easily overlook the less routine trans-sectoral associations that are crucial to the creation and realisation of value. This paper shifts attention to identifying the sites at which diverse specialisations meet to concentrate and amplify mutually reinforcing circuits of value. These valorisation processes are demonstrated in the case of Australian Fashion Week, an event in which multiple interests converge to synchronize different expressions of fashion ideas, actively construct fashion markets and enhance the value of a diverse range of fashionable commodities. Conceptualising these interconnected industries as components of a trans-sectoral fashion complex has implications for understanding regional development, world cities, production location, and the manner in which production systems “touch down” in different places

Feminisation of success or successful femininities? Disentangling ‘new femininities’ under neoliberal conditions

This article critically examines what might be titled the feminisation of success that is ascribed to optimistic characterisations of new constructions of femininity for young women in the UK, particularly in relation to classed positions. In order to do this it is necessary to understand the complex relationship between feminism, post-feminism, neoliberalism and femininities, especially since the millennium. Young women have been positioned as the beneficiaries of successful social and political change which, together with ideas of individualism and reflexive constructions of identity, almost mandate young women to embody success. The article seeks to examine and assess the discursive constructions of ‘successful femininities’ in relation to their normative limitations and asks in particular whether the putative existence of ‘new femininities’ is attainable for all young women. With the impact of over a decade of neoliberal policies and austerity measures being felt by many, it is argued that the discourses of ‘successful femininities’ work to obscure the recalibrated inequalities that have been forged by neoliberal conditions

Shifting new media: from content to consultancy, from heterarchy to hierarchy

This is a detailed case history of one of London’s iconic new media companies, AMX Studios. Some of the changes in this firm, we assume, are not untypical for other firms in this sector. Particularly we want to draw attention to two transformations. The first change in AMX and in London’s new media industry more generally refers to the field of industrial relations. What can be observed is a shift from a rather heterarchical towards a more hierarchical organized new media industry, a shift from short-term project networks to long-term client dependency. The second change refers to new media products and services. We want to argue for a shift from cool content production towards consultancy and interactive communications solutions