Ethnobotany of natural fibres - Bactris setosa (tucum) in a traditional rural community

This work aimed to study the characteristics of the fibres of the species Bactris setosa ('tucum') used by close-knit social groups, located in Sorocaba - Sao Paulo - Brazil, in basket-making techniques, for possible applications in textile activity. Optical microscopy (NBR 13 538:1995) and Tensile Properties (ASTM D 3 822-2001) were used to assess properties such as the fibre structre, linear density, breaking force, elongation at break and breaking tenacity of each species. Bactris setosa showed a longitudinal view similar to that of sisal; an average linear density of 41.2 tex, a tenacity average of 11.96 cN/tex, closer to fiberglass, and an elongation ranging between 1.35 and 3.87%. It is important to clarify the delicacy and detail of the tests, and from this we highlight the importance of carrying out these studies, based on which science and technology must be linked with socio-environmental aspects

Research and design: development of yarns collection with kapok fibers

Das lógicas vigentes de produção e consumo mais recorrentes no sistema da moda, emergem problemáticas ambientais e sociais de escala mundial. Ao longo da sua evolução, a produção têxtil, uma das atividades humanas mais antigas e elementares, tornou-se uma importante responsável pelo consumo em grande escala e uso indevido de recursos naturais e, associada aos valores de consumo da sociedade urbano-industrial, a sazonalidade da moda é mais um agravante. Fruto de uma visão de mundo fragmentada, intrínseca ao paradigma moderno, o design têxtil e de moda, assim como outras áreas do conhecimento, se desenvolveram orientados a sustentar um padrão de desenvolvimento econômico e tecnológico compatíveis com estas lógicas, de forma que no Brasil, importantes saberes sobre processos tecnológicos e o uso de matérias-primas inerentes a nossa cultura popular foram levados a um processo de desuso e esquecimento. Saberes estes intimamente associados à biodiversidade e tidos como de extrema importância dentro das políticas nacionais e internacionais de desenvolvimento ambiental e social. Neste contexto, este trabalho se desenvolveu com o objetivo de propor uma coleção de fios, produzidos a partir de fibras de paina, da espécie nativa Chorisia speciosa, e de técnicas têxteis artesanais, associando à criação as pesquisas teórica e experimental. O método que delineamos para o desenvolvimento da coleção de fios abrange: i) pesquisa teórico-conceitual, em que foram levantados os principais conhecimentos sobre as matérias primas e técnicas no âmbito da cultura têxtil popular brasileira e as principais tendências de moda e consumo no Brasil e no mundo; ii) pesquisa técnico-experimental, fase da pesquisa em que foi testada a viabilidade técnica de transformar as fibras de paina e diferentes misturas destas com fibras de algodão e lã em um fio, bem como o seu tingimento, utilizando as técnicas artesanais pesquisadas na etapa anterior; iii) desenvolvimento da coleção de fios propriamente dita. A partir dos dados obtidos na pesquisa, foi identificado que o vasto conhecimento popular a cerca das técnicas têxteis demonstra imenso potencial ao incorporá-lo no processo criativo têxtil. Além disso, a pesquisa técnico-experimental apontou a viabilidade de fiação da paina com misturas de algodão e lã, bem como o seu tingimento natural. Por meio deste trabalho foi possível então ratificar a importância e potencial de aliar a pesquisa científica à criação de moda tanto para o desenvolvimento de um novo material, como na proposição de formas distintas de produção e consumo de moda. As tendências de moda pesquisadas demonstraram que uma parcela da sociedade vive na atualidade uma intensa e acelerada redefinição de conceitos, valores e estilo de vida que contrariam a configuração do mercado de moda e a lógica de consumo predominante inerente a este, e se projetam gradativamente em transformações nos comportamentos de consumo e consequentemente no mercado e economia. Assim, elas apenas reafirmam a valia da presente pesquisa para o mercado de moda e a propensão deste à aceitação de produtos como o que propusemos aqui.Social and environmental issues have emerged in global scale from the prevailing logics of production and consumption recurrent in the fashion system. The textile production, one of the oldest elementary human activities, has become a major factor in large scale consumption and in the misuse of natural resources throughout its evolution. Another aggravating factor is the urban-industrial society consumption values and the seasonality of fashion. As a result of a fragmented worldview, intrinsic to the modern paradigm, the textile and fashion design as well as other areas of knowledge - have been developed towards the sustainability of economic and technological development patterns compatible to these logics. In Brazil, important knowledge about technological processes and the use of raw materials, inherent in our popular culture, feel in disuse and oblivion. This knowledge is closely associated with biodiversity and taken with paramount importance for national and international environmental and social development policies. In this context, this work was developed aiming to propose a yarn collection produced with kapok fibers - from the native specie Chorisia speciosa - and textile craft techniques, linking creation to theoretical and experimental research. The outlined method for the development of the yarn collection includes: i) theoretical and conceptual research, in which we analyzed the main knowledge on raw materials and techniques in Brazilian popular textile culture and main fashion and consumption trends in Brazil and the world, ii) technical and experimental research, the phase in which we tested the technical feasibility of kapok fibers transformation and different mixtures of these fibers with cotton and wool on a yarn, as well as its dyeing, using the handmade techniques surveyed in the previous step, iii) development of yarn collection. From the data obtained in the research, we identified that the vast popular knowledge on technical textiles have immense potential to be incorporated in creative textile process. In addition, technical experimental research demonstrated the feasibility of kapok spinning with mixtures of cotton and wool, as well as its natural dyeing. Throughout the work, it was possible to confirm the potential importance of linking scientific research to fashion creation for both the development of new material and for proposing different forms of fashion production and consumption. Fashion trend research showed that part of the society is experiencing an intense and accelerated redefinition of concepts, values and lifestyle that contradicts the fashion market configuration and its consumer logic. Results of this process have gradually been projected as changes in consumer behavior, and consequently, in the market and the economy. Therefore, they reaffirm this research value for the fashion market and its propensity to accept the proposed products

Ethnobotany of natural fibres - bactris setosa (tucum) in a traditional rural community

This work aimed to study the characteristics of the fibres of the species Bactris setosa (‘tucum’) used by close-knit social groups, located in Sorocaba – Săo Paulo - Brazil, in basketmaking techniques, for possible applications in textile activity. Optical microscopy (NBR 13 538:1995) and Tensile Properties (ASTM D 3 822-2001) were used to assess properties such as the fibre structre, linear density, breaking force, elongation at break and breaking tenacity of each species. Bactris setosa showed a longitudinal view similar to that of sisal; an average linear density of 41.2 tex, a tenacity average of 11.96 cN/tex, closer to fiberglass, and an elongation ranging between 1.35 and 3.87%.It is important to clarify the delicacy and detail of the tests, and from this we highlight the importance of carrying out these studies, based on which science and technology must be linked with socio-environmental aspects2091182

Ethnobotany of Natural Fibres - Bactris setosa (tucum) in a Traditional Rural Community

This work aimed to study the characteristics of the fibres of the species Bactris setosa ('tucum') used by close-knit social groups, located in Sorocaba - Sao Paulo - Brazil, in basket-making techniques, for possible applications in textile activity. Optical microscopy (NBR 13 538:1995) and Tensile Properties (ASTM D 3 822-2001) were used to assess properties such as the fibre structre, linear density, breaking force, elongation at break and breaking tenacity of each species. Bactris setosa showed a longitudinal view similar to that of sisal; an average linear density of 41.2 tex, a tenacity average of 11.96 cN/tex, closer to fiberglass, and an elongation ranging between 1.35 and 3.87%. It is important to clarify the delicacy and detail of the tests, and from this we highlight the importance of carrying out these studies, based on which science and technology must be linked with socio-environmental aspects.202182