Oral supplementation of specific collagen peptides has beneficial effects on human skin physiology: a double-blind, placebo-controlled study

Various dietary supplements are claimed to have cutaneous anti-aging properties; however, there are a limited number of research studies supporting these claims. The objective of this research was to study the effectiveness of collagen hydrolysate (CH) composed of specific collagen peptides on skin biophysical parameters related to cutaneous aging. In this double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 69 women aged 35-55 years were randomized to receive 2.5 g or 5.0 g of CH or placebo once daily for 8 weeks, with 23 subjects being allocated to each treatment group. Skin elasticity, skin moisture, transepidermal water loss and skin roughness were objectively measured before the first oral product application (t0) and after 4 (t1) and 8 weeks (t2) of regular intake. Skin elasticity (primary interest) was also assessed at follow-up 4 weeks after the last intake of CH (t3, 4-week regression phase). At the end of the study, skin elasticity in both CH dosage groups showed a statistically significant improvement in comparison to placebo. After 4 weeks of follow-up treatment, a statistically significantly higher skin elasticity level was determined in elderly women. With regard to skin moisture and skin evaporation, a positive influence of CH treatment could be observed in a subgroup analysis, but data failed to reach a level of statistical significance. No side effects were noted throughout the study

Oral intake of specific bioactive collagen peptides reduces skin wrinkles and increases dermal matrix synthesis

Dietary consumption of food supplements has been found to modulate skin functions and can therefore be useful in the treatment of skin aging. However, there is only a limited number of clinical studies supporting these claims. In this double-blind, placebo-controlled study, the effectiveness of the specific bioactive collagen peptide (BCP) VERISOL® on eye wrinkle formation and stimulation of procollagen I, elastin and fibrillin biosynthesis in the skin was assessed. A hundred and fourteen women aged 45-65 years were randomized to receive 2.5 g of BCP or placebo, once daily for 8 weeks, with 57 subjects being allocated to each treatment group. Skin wrinkles were objectively measured in all subjects, before starting the treatment, after 4 and 8 weeks as well as 4 weeks after the last intake (4-week regression phase). A subgroup was established for suction blister biopsies analyzing procollagen I, elastin and fibrillin at the beginning of the treatment and after 8 weeks of intake. The ingestion of the specific BCP used in this study promoted a statistically significant reduction of eye wrinkle volume (p < 0.05) in comparison to the placebo group after 4 and 8 weeks (20%) of intake. Moreover a positive long-lasting effect was observed 4 weeks after the last BCP administration (p < 0.05). Additionally, after 8 weeks of intake a statistically significantly higher content of procollagen type I (65%) and elastin (18%) in the BCP-treated volunteers compared to the placebo-treated patients was detected. For fibrillin, a 6% increase could be determined after BCP treatment compared to the placebo, but this effect failed to reach the level of statistical significance. In conclusion, our findings demonstrate that the oral intake of specific bioactive collagen peptides (Verisol®) reduced skin wrinkles and had positive effects on dermal matrix synthesis

EPIFANIA E PARALISIA EM "EVELINE" E "BARRO" DE JAMES JOYCE

Este artigo tem como objetivo discutir e analisar o uso do recurso literário de epifania em dois contos pertencentes à coletânea Dublinenses (1914), “Eveline” e “Barro”, escritos pelo romancista, contista e poeta James Joyce, nascido em Dublin, no ano de 1882. Busca-se, nesta análise, apontar como Joyce retratou as consequências do período da opressão britânica vivida pelos irlandeses por mais de 700 anos, por meio da epifania, recurso literário empregado em seus contos. Além disso, esta pesquisa traça um panorama do contexto histórico acerca da relação entre Irlanda e Inglaterra e apresenta teorias sobre o conto, tradicional e moderno, apontando características do modernismo nos contos de Dublinenses. A metodologia utilizada neste trabalho, consiste em analisar os dois contos referidos acima por meio dos textos teóricos, sobre o conto tradicional e moderno, de Edgar Allan Poe (1993[1846]), Ricardo Piglia (2001) e Frank O’Connor (1965) para assim, relacionar as teorias aos textos literários de “Eveline” e “Barro”

Collagen peptides modulate the metabolism of extracellular matrix by human dermal fibroblasts derived from sun-protected and sun-exposed body sites

Clinical data published in recent years have demonstrated positive effects of collagen hydrolysate (CH) on skin aging clinical signs. CH use as food supplement has a long historyhowever, few studies have addressed the underlying purpose of CH on the cellular and molecular biology of skin cells that could elucidate clinical improvement findings. Wide diversity of characteristics has been reported for dermal fibroblasts derived from different body sites and it is unknown whether collagen peptides could modulate differently cells from chronological aged and photoaged skin areas. This study investigated the influence of CH on the extracellular matrix metabolism and proliferation of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) derived from chronological aged (sun-protected) and photoaged (sun-exposed) body sites. CH treatment did not affect cellular proliferation of either cell cultures, but notably modulated cell metabolism in monolayer model, increasing the content of dermal matrix precursor and main protein, procollagen I and collagen I, respectively. These effects were confirmed in the human dermal equivalent model. The increase in collagen content in the cultures was attributed to stimulation of biosynthesis and decreased collagen I metabolism through inhibition of metalloproteinase activity (MMP) 1 and 2. Modulation of CH in dermal metabolism did not differ between cells derived from sun-protected and sun-exposed areas, although lower concentrations of CH seemed to be enough to stimulate sun-exposed-derived HDFs, suggesting more pronounced effect in these cells. This study contributes to understanding the biological effects of CH on skin cells and viability of its use as a functional ingredient in food supplements.GELITA do Brasil LtdaFAPESPCAPESCNPqUniv Sao Paulo, Inst Biomed Sci, Dept Cell & Dev Biol, Av Prof Lineu Prestes 1524, BR-05508000 Sao Paulo, SP, BrazilUniv Fed Sao Paulo, ENT Res Lab, Dept Otorhinolaryngol Head & Neck Surg, Rua Coronel Lisboa 958, BR-04023900 Sao Paulo, SP, BrazilUniv Fed Sao Paulo, ENT Res Lab, Dept Otorhinolaryngol Head & Neck Surg, Rua Coronel Lisboa 958, BR-04023900 Sao Paulo, SP, BrazilWeb of Scienc

Accelerated chemical stability data of O/W fluid emulsions containing the extract of Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (and) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham

Development of topical dosage forms requires physical, physicochemical and chemical assays that provide, as soon as possible, the formulation with the best stability profiles. This study evaluated the stability of O/W fluid emulsions, by total flavonoids determination, expressed in rutin, containing the standardized extract of Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (and) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham. Samples were evaluated for 90 days stored at 24.0 ± 2.0 ºC, 5.0 ± 0.5 ºC and 40.0 ± 0.5 ºC, following a protocol for the assessment of accelerated chemical stability assay, also known as Normal Stability Test. A sensitive UV-spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm was previously validated for the determination of the active substance. By Normal Stability Test, the O/W fluid emulsions presented acceptable chemical stability, for at least 90 days, when the samples were stored at 24.0 ± 2.0 ºC and 5.0 ± 0.5 ºC. The storage condition at 40.0 ± 0.5 ºC has accelerated the degradation process of the total flavonoids, consequently, those O/W emulsions containing this kind of natural active substance or a similar preparation must not be stored at elevated temperatures.O desenvolvimento de formas farmacêuticas tópicas necessita ensaios físicos, físico-químicos e químicos que selecionem rapidamente a formulação de melhor desempenho de estabilidade. Este estudo avaliou a estabilidade de emulsões O/A fluidas, por meio da determinação de flavonóides totais, expressos em rutina, contendo o extrato padronizado de Trichilia catigua Adr. Juss (e) Ptychopetalum olacoides Bentham. As amostras foram armazenadas a 24,0 ± 2,0 ºC; 5,0 ± 0,5 ºC e 40,0 ± 0,5 ºC durante 90 dias e foram avaliadas segundo o protocolo para a determinação da estabilidade acelerada, conhecida como Teste de Estabilidade Normal. A quantificação da substância ativa foi determinada por espectrofotometria na região do ultravioleta a 361,0 nm, previamente validado. Após os ensaios de estabilidade, as emulsões O/A fluidas apresentaram estabilidade adequada, pelo menos, no período de 90 dias, quando armazenadas a 24,0 ± 2,0 ºC e 5,0 ± 0,5 ºC. A condição de armazenamento a 40,0 ± 0,5 ºC acelerou a cinética de degradação dos flavonóides totais, expressos em rutina, portanto, preparações possuindo esta categoria de substância ativa natural ou formulações similares não devem ser armazenadas em temperaturas elevadas

Operational modal analysis application for the measure of logarithm decrement in centrifugal compressor

LectureThe results of a stability test on a centrifugal compressor during the full load test of the entire compression train are presented. A Magnetic Exciter was installed at the shaft end in order to excite the first lateral mode of the rotor at running conditions, the frequency and logarithmic decrement of the first mode was identified by analyzing the Frequency Response Functions with classic techniques (D.J. Ewins, 1984). A new method for turbomachinery applications based on Operational Modal Analysis (OMA) is presented for the identification of modal parameters. Thanks to the natural excitation exerted by the gas flow on the rotor it is possible to avoid the use of any external device to perform the identification. The vibration signals have been recorded over proper measurement time windows with the compressor at steady state. The Stochastic Subspace Identification (a statespace algorithm in time domain) has been used to post-process the data. Modal parameters of the first lateral mode (natural frequency, damping ratio and mode shape) have been identified. A comparison between the two identification techniques on the identified frequency and logarithmic decrement of the first lateral mode was performed showing the potential of the OMA methodology. In addition four numerical cases with different stability levels were studied to confirm the reliability of the methodology for rotating machinery. A transient analysis was performed by applying a random excitation at mid-span and vibration responses have been evaluated at bearing locations. For each case the modal parameters were identified using OMA and compared with the exact theoretical values

Stability and in vitro penetration study of rutin incorporated in a cosmetic emulsion through an alternative model biomembrane

A rutina é empregada como antioxidante e na prevenção da fragilidade capilar. Estudos de penetração in vitro através da pele humana seria a situação ideal, entretanto, há dificuldades de sua obtenção e manutenção de sua viabilidade. Entre os demais modelos de membrana, a muda de pele de cobra se apresenta como estrato córneo puro, fornecendo barreira similar ao humano e é obtida sem a morte do animal. Os objetivos desta pesquisa foram desenvolver e avaliar a estabilidade de uma emulsão cosmética contendo rutina e, como promotor de penetração cutânea, o propilenoglicol; e avaliar a penetração e a retenção cutânea in vitro da referida substância ativa da formulação, empregando um modelo de biomembrana alternativo. A emulsão foi desenvolvida com rutina e propilenoglicol, ambos a 5,0% p/p. Quantificou-se a rutina das emulsões por espectrofotometria a 361,0 nm, método previamente validado. A penetração e retenção cutânea in vitro foram realizadas em células de difusão vertical com muda de pele de cobra de Crotalus durissus, como modelo de biomembrana alternativo, e água destilada e álcool etílico absoluto 99,5% (1:1), como fluido receptor. O experimento foi conduzido em um período de seis horas, a 37,0 ± 0,5 ºC e agitação constante de 300 rpm. Empregou-se o método espectrofotométrico validado a 410,0 nm para a quantificação da rutina após penetração e retenção cutânea. A emulsão não promoveu a penetração cutânea da rutina através da muda de pele de C. durissus, retendo 0,931 ± 0,0391 mg de rutina/mg de muda de pele de cobra. Nas condições de armazenamento a 25,0 ± 2,0 ºC; 5,0 ± 0,5 ºC e 45,0 ± 0,5 ºC, a emulsão apresentou-se quimicamente estável durante 30 dias. De acordo com os resultados, a emulsão não favoreceu a penetração cutânea da rutina, mas apenas sua retenção no estrato córneo de C. durissus, condição considerada estável no período de 30 dias.Rutin is employed as antioxidant and to prevent the capillary fragility and, when incorporated in cosmetic emulsions, it must target the action site. In vitro cutaneous penetration studies through human skin is the ideal situation, however, there are difficulties to obtain and to maintain this tissue viability. Among the membrane models, shed snake skin presents itself as pure stratum corneum, providing barrier function similar to human and it is obtained without the animal sacrifice. The objectives of this research were the development and stability evaluation of a cosmetic emulsion containing rutin and propylene glycol (penetration enhancer) and the evaluation of rutin in vitro cutaneous penetration and retention from the emulsion, employing an alternative model biomembrane. Emulsion was developed with rutin and propylene glycol, both at 5.0% w/w. Active substance presented on the formulation was quantified by a validated spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm. Rutin cutaneous penetration and retention was performed in vertical diffusion cells with shed snake skin of Crotalus durissus, as alternative model biomembrane, and distilled water and ethanol 99.5% (1:1), as receptor fluid. The experiment was conducted for six hours, at 37.0 ± 0.5 ºC with constant stirring of 300 rpm. Spectrophotometry at 410.0 nm, previously validated, determined the active substance after cutaneous penetration/retention. Emulsion did not promote rutin cutaneous penetration through C. durissus skin, retaining 0.931 ± 0.0391 mg rutin/mg shed snake skin. The referred formulation was chemically stable for 30 days after stored at 25.0 ± 2.0 ºC, 5.0 ± 0.5 ºC and 45.0 ± 0.5 ºC. In conclusion, it has not been verified the active cutaneous penetration through the model biomembrane, but only its retention on the Crotalus durissus stratum corneum, condition considered stable for 30 days

Influence of collagen hydrolysate supplementation on extracellular matrix metabolism of human dermal fibroblasts derived from sun-protected and sun-exposed body sites, cultured in monolayer and dermal equivalent models.

Este trabalho investigou, pela primeira vez, a influência do CH na modulação do metabolismo e proliferação de fibroblastos dérmicos humanos (FDHs) derivados de áreas fotoprotegida e fotoexposta, cultivados em modelo de monocamada. Além disto, foram investigados os efeitos da suplementação com CH na secreção de colágeno tipo I, em modelo de cultura 3D de equivalente dérmico, derivado de matriz produzida exclusivamente por FDHs. O tratamento com CH não influenciou a proliferação celular dos fibroblastos derivados de ambas as áreas, porém modulou expressivamente o metabolismo dos FDHs cultivados em monocamada, elevando o conteúdo de pró-colágeno I e colágeno I e diminuindo a atividade de metaloproteinases de matriz (MMP) 1 e 2. Concentrações menores de CH foram suficientes para estimular as células de área fotoexposta, sugerindo efeitos mais pronunciados do CH nestas células. Este estudo é uma contribuição importante para compreensão dos efeitos biológicos do CH nas células da pele e viabilidade do seu uso como ingrediente funcional de suplementos alimentares.This study investigated, for the first time, the influence of CH on the extracellular matrix metabolism and proliferation of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) derived from sun-protected and sun-exposed body sites, cultured in monolayer in vitro model. Moreover, CH effects on the secretion of type I collagen were investigated in dermal equivalent 3D model derived from dermal matrix produced exclusively by HDFs. CH treatment did not affect cellular proliferation of either cell cultures, but notably modulated cell metabolism in monolayer model, increasing the content of procollagen I and collagen I and decreasing metalloproteinase activity (MMP) 1 and 2. These effects were confirmed in the human dermal equivalent model. Lower concentrations of CH were enough to stimulate sun-exposed-derived HDFs, suggesting more pronounced effect in these cells. This study presents an important contribution to understanding the biological effects of CH in skin cells and viability of its use as a functional ingredient in food supplements

Development and physical and physicochemical stability assay clay facial masks

Com a tecnologia altamente especializada na produção de insumos, utilização de recursos naturais em produtos cosméticos tem sido crescente. Recentemente, a Cosmetologia retoma o interesse pelas máscaras faciais baseadas na diversidade de matérias-primas argilosas. Embora muitas propriedades dispersões argilosas tenham sido estudadas, existem poucos estudos científicos relacionados aos aspectos de estabilidade físico-química de formulações baseadas em argilas. Esta pesquisa teve como objetivo o desenvolvimento de máscaras faciais argilosas, avaliando seu perfil de estabilidade física e físico-química. Inicialmente, composição química e mineralógica, tamanho de partículas, propriedades térmicas, índice de intumescimento e valor de pH das matérias-primas argilosas foram determinados. Também foram avaliadas as propriedades reológicas de dispersões argilosas contendo 1,0; 3,0 e 5,0% p/p de silicato de alumínio e magnésio (SAM) associado ou não com 0,5; 1,0 e 5,0% p/p de goma xantana ou hidroxipropilguar. A influência das variáveis de preparo (temperatura, velocidade e tempo de agitação) na viscosidade aparente da pré-formulação, armazenada a 22,0 ± 2,0 °C durante 28 dias, foi avaliada por meio do planejamento estatístico fatorial 23. Foram desenvolvidas nove formulações em veículo aquoso gelificado, variando o tipo concentração de gomas e de umectantes; e cinco em veículo emulsionado partículas sólidas associadas ou não a um tensoativo não iônico, contendo proporções variadas de fase oleosa. As formulações foram submetidas à Avaliação Preliminar de Estabilidade e aos Testes de Estabilidade Acelerada e Normal. Homogeneidade, . cor e odor, valor de pH e parâmetros reológicos foram determinados em cada dia de análise durante os testes de estabilidade. Formulações em veículo aquoso contendo 5,0% p/p de SAM associado a 0,5% de goma xantana ou 5,0% de hidroxipropilguar contendo a mistura de glicerina propilenoglicol (4,0% p/p de cada componente) foram estáveis em todas condições estudadas. Além disto, a formulação emulsionada contendo 5,0% de SAM como emulsificante primário e 4,0% de fase oleosa também permaneceu estável todas as condições avaliadas. O armazenamento a 5,0 ± 0,5 °C é recomendado para as formulações de máscaras faciais baseadas em materiais argilosos.Due to highly specialized technology in supplies production, the use natural compounds has been growing. Recently, Cosmetology retakes the interest facial masks based on diversity of clay raw-materials. Although most of properties clay dispersions have been studied, specific aspects concerning physicochemical stability of clay mask products remain unclear. This work aimed at developing and investigating the physicochemical stability of clay facial masks. Firstly, clay raw-materials were evaluated according to chemical and mineralogical composition, particle size distribution, thermal properties, swelling index and pH value. Rheological properties of clay dispersions, containing 1.0, 3.0 and 5.0% w/w of aluminum and magnesium silicate (AMS) associated or not with 0.5, 1.0 and 5.0% of xanthan gum or hydroxypropyl guar, was also determined. A factorial experimental design 23 was used to evaluate the influence of mixing conditions (temperature, rotation and time) on apparent viscosity of pre-formulation stored at 22.0 ± 2.0 °C for 28 days. It was developed nine formulations in aqueous vehicle, differentiated by type and concentration of gums and humectants; and five formulations in emulsified vehicle solids particles associated or not with a non-ionic surfactant and containing different oil phase proportions. Formulations were subjected to Preliminary, Accelerated and Normal Stability Assays. Homogeneity, color and odor, pH value and rheological parameters were determined in each day of analysis during stability assays. Aqueous formulations containing 5,0% w/w of AMS associated to 0.5% w/w xanthan gum or 5.0% w/w of hydroxypropyl guar and glycerin and propylene glycol (4.0% w/w each one) were stable at all studied conditions. Moreover, the emulsified formulation added by 5.0% w/w AMS as primary emulsifying and 4.0% of oil phase kept stable at all conditions. The storage at 5.0 ± 0.5 °C is recommended for physical stability of clay-based formulations

Development and physical and physicochemical stability assay clay facial masks

Com a tecnologia altamente especializada na produção de insumos, utilização de recursos naturais em produtos cosméticos tem sido crescente. Recentemente, a Cosmetologia retoma o interesse pelas máscaras faciais baseadas na diversidade de matérias-primas argilosas. Embora muitas propriedades dispersões argilosas tenham sido estudadas, existem poucos estudos científicos relacionados aos aspectos de estabilidade físico-química de formulações baseadas em argilas. Esta pesquisa teve como objetivo o desenvolvimento de máscaras faciais argilosas, avaliando seu perfil de estabilidade física e físico-química. Inicialmente, composição química e mineralógica, tamanho de partículas, propriedades térmicas, índice de intumescimento e valor de pH das matérias-primas argilosas foram determinados. Também foram avaliadas as propriedades reológicas de dispersões argilosas contendo 1,0; 3,0 e 5,0% p/p de silicato de alumínio e magnésio (SAM) associado ou não com 0,5; 1,0 e 5,0% p/p de goma xantana ou hidroxipropilguar. A influência das variáveis de preparo (temperatura, velocidade e tempo de agitação) na viscosidade aparente da pré-formulação, armazenada a 22,0 ± 2,0 °C durante 28 dias, foi avaliada por meio do planejamento estatístico fatorial 23. Foram desenvolvidas nove formulações em veículo aquoso gelificado, variando o tipo concentração de gomas e de umectantes; e cinco em veículo emulsionado partículas sólidas associadas ou não a um tensoativo não iônico, contendo proporções variadas de fase oleosa. As formulações foram submetidas à Avaliação Preliminar de Estabilidade e aos Testes de Estabilidade Acelerada e Normal. Homogeneidade, . cor e odor, valor de pH e parâmetros reológicos foram determinados em cada dia de análise durante os testes de estabilidade. Formulações em veículo aquoso contendo 5,0% p/p de SAM associado a 0,5% de goma xantana ou 5,0% de hidroxipropilguar contendo a mistura de glicerina propilenoglicol (4,0% p/p de cada componente) foram estáveis em todas condições estudadas. Além disto, a formulação emulsionada contendo 5,0% de SAM como emulsificante primário e 4,0% de fase oleosa também permaneceu estável todas as condições avaliadas. O armazenamento a 5,0 ± 0,5 °C é recomendado para as formulações de máscaras faciais baseadas em materiais argilosos.Due to highly specialized technology in supplies production, the use natural compounds has been growing. Recently, Cosmetology retakes the interest facial masks based on diversity of clay raw-materials. Although most of properties clay dispersions have been studied, specific aspects concerning physicochemical stability of clay mask products remain unclear. This work aimed at developing and investigating the physicochemical stability of clay facial masks. Firstly, clay raw-materials were evaluated according to chemical and mineralogical composition, particle size distribution, thermal properties, swelling index and pH value. Rheological properties of clay dispersions, containing 1.0, 3.0 and 5.0% w/w of aluminum and magnesium silicate (AMS) associated or not with 0.5, 1.0 and 5.0% of xanthan gum or hydroxypropyl guar, was also determined. A factorial experimental design 23 was used to evaluate the influence of mixing conditions (temperature, rotation and time) on apparent viscosity of pre-formulation stored at 22.0 ± 2.0 °C for 28 days. It was developed nine formulations in aqueous vehicle, differentiated by type and concentration of gums and humectants; and five formulations in emulsified vehicle solids particles associated or not with a non-ionic surfactant and containing different oil phase proportions. Formulations were subjected to Preliminary, Accelerated and Normal Stability Assays. Homogeneity, color and odor, pH value and rheological parameters were determined in each day of analysis during stability assays. Aqueous formulations containing 5,0% w/w of AMS associated to 0.5% w/w xanthan gum or 5.0% w/w of hydroxypropyl guar and glycerin and propylene glycol (4.0% w/w each one) were stable at all studied conditions. Moreover, the emulsified formulation added by 5.0% w/w AMS as primary emulsifying and 4.0% of oil phase kept stable at all conditions. The storage at 5.0 ± 0.5 °C is recommended for physical stability of clay-based formulations