On the wave-induced difference in mean sea level between the two sides of a submerged breakwater

Very simple formulae are derived for the difference in mean level between the two sides of a submerged breakwater when waves are incident on it at an arbitrary angle. The formulae apply also to waves undergoing refraction due to changes in depth and to waves in open channel transitions

On the statistical distribution of the heights of sea waves

The statistical distribution of wave-heights is derived theoretically on the assumptions (a) that the wave spectrum contains a single narrow band of frequencies, and (b) that the wave energy is being received from a large number of different sources whose phases are random. Theoretical relations are found between the root-meansquare wave-height, the mean height of the highest one-third (or highest one-tenth) waves and the most probable height of the largest wave in a given interval of time. There is close agreement with observation

Testing non-Gaussianity in CMB Maps by Morphological Statistic

The assumption of Gaussianity of the primordial perturbations plays an important role in modern cosmology. The most direct test of this hypothesis consists in testing Gaussianity of the CMB maps. Counting the pixels with the temperatures in given ranges and thus estimating the one point probability function of the field is the simplest of all the tests. Other usually more complex tests of Gaussianity generally use a great deal of the information already contained in the probability function. However, the most interesting outcome of such a test would be the signal of non-Gaussianity independent of the probability function. It is shown that the independent information has purely morphological character i.e. it depends on the geometry and topology of the level contours only. As an example we discuss in detail the quadratic model $v=u+\alpha (u^2-1)$ ($u$ is a Gaussian field with $\bar{u}=0$ and $=1$, $\alpha$ is a parameter) which may arise in slow-roll or two-field inflation models. We show that in the limit of small amplitude $\alpha$ the full information about the non-Gaussianity is contained in the probability function. If other tests are performed on this model they simply recycle the same information. A simple procedure allowing to assess the sensitivity of any statistics to the morphological information is suggested. We provide an analytic estimate of the statistical limit for detecting the quadratic non-Gaussianity \a_c as a function of the map size in the ideal situation when the scale of the field is resolved. This estimate is in a good agreement with the results of the Monte Carlo simulations of $256^2$ and $1024^2$ maps. The effect of resolution on the detection quadratic non-Gaussianity is also briefly discussed.Comment: 26 pages, 9 figure

The distribution of extremal points of Gaussian scalar fields

We consider the signed density of the extremal points of (two-dimensional) scalar fields with a Gaussian distribution. We assign a positive unit charge to the maxima and minima of the function and a negative one to its saddles. At first, we compute the average density for a field in half-space with Dirichlet boundary conditions. Then we calculate the charge-charge correlation function (without boundary). We apply the general results to random waves and random surfaces. Furthermore, we find a generating functional for the two-point function. Its Legendre transform is the integral over the scalar curvature of a 4-dimensional Riemannian manifold.Comment: 22 pages, 8 figures, corrected published versio

A note on wave set-up

Seaward of the breaker zone, the observations of Saville are in good qualitative agreement with the prediction that the mean surface level is increasingly depressed towards the shoreline

Signed zeros of Gaussian vector fields-density, correlation functions and curvature

We calculate correlation functions of the (signed) density of zeros of Gaussian distributed vector fields. We are able to express correlation functions of arbitrary order through the curvature tensor of a certain abstract Riemann-Cartan or Riemannian manifold. As an application, we discuss one- and two-point functions. The zeros of a two-dimensional Gaussian vector field model the distribution of topological defects in the high-temperature phase of two-dimensional systems with orientational degrees of freedom, such as superfluid films, thin superconductors and liquid crystals.Comment: 14 pages, 1 figure, uses iopart.cls, improved presentation, to appear in J. Phys.

Morphology of the Secondary CMB Anisotropies: the Key to "Smoldering" Reionization

We show how the morphological analysis of the maps of the secondary CMB anisotropies can detect an extended period of ``smoldering'' reionization, during which the universe remains partially ionized. Neither radio observations of the redshifted 21cm line nor IR observations of the redshifted Lyman-alpha forest will be able to detect such a period. The most sensitive to this kind of non-gaussianity parameters are the number of regions in the excursion set, the perimeter of the excursion set, and the genus of the largest (by area) region. For example, if the universe reionized fully at z=6, but maintained about 1/3 mean ionized fraction since z=20, then a 2 arcmin map with 500x500 pixel resolution and a signal-to-noise ratio S/N=1/2 allows to detect the non-gaussianity due to reionization with better than 99% confidence level.Comment: submitted to MNRA

Asymptotic behaviour of the Rayleigh--Taylor instability

We investigate long time numerical simulations of the inviscid Rayleigh-Taylor instability at Atwood number one using a boundary integral method. We are able to attain the asymptotic behavior for the spikes predicted by Clavin & Williams\cite{clavin} for which we give a simplified demonstration. In particular we observe that the spike's curvature evolves like $t^3$ while the overshoot in acceleration shows a good agreement with the suggested $1/t^5$ law. Moreover, we obtain consistent results for the prefactor coefficients of the asymptotic laws. Eventually we exhibit the self-similar behavior of the interface profile near the spike.Comment: 4 pages, 6 figure

The electrical field induced by ocean currents and waves, with applications to the method of towed electrodes

The purpose of this paper is to discuss the nature of the electrical field induced in the ocean by particular types of velocity distribution. It is believed that these examples will be helpful in the interpretation of measurements by towed electrodes in the sea. The electrical field induced by waves and tidal streams, originally predicted by Faraday (1832), was first measured experimentally by Young, Gerrard and Jevons (1920), who used both moored and towed electrodes in their observations. Recently, the technique of towed electrodes has been developed by von Arx (1950, 1951) and others into a useful means of detecting water movements in the deep ocean. While the method has been increasingly used, the problem of interpreting the measurements in terms of water movements has become of great importance. Two of the present authors have made theoretical studies (Longuet-Higgins 1949, Stommel 1948) dealing with certain cases of velocity fields, and Malkus and Stern (1952) have proved some important integral theorems. There seems, however, to be a need for a more extended discussion of the principles underlying the method, and for the computation of additional illustrative examples. This is all the more desirable since some of the theoretical discussions published previously have been misleading