Gradient colour deviation in woven textiles to correspond to pictorial images in diversity

This study aims to propose optimal weaving conditions for creation of a natural shading effect in woven textiles. By applying the weave structure and pattern theories, the two core parts of weaving are explored and examined towards improving realisation of gradient weave colours. When planning experiments, weave repeat sizes from 12- to 30-thread are created into a shaded weave series and compounded in a multi-weft figuring method. In terms of weave pattern, a colour spectrum image is designed and its split primary colour layers (e.g. cyan, magenta, yellow and black) are employed as a weave pattern. In conjunction with varied weaving conditions, a colour spectrum image is reproduced in 19 different woven forms. In this study, comparative analysis is approached based on the samples resulted from trials and the practical research is explained in detail of weave structure and weave pattern specifications to propose the core principle of establishing gradient colour deviation

Pigment mixing effect realized with pre-dyed opaque yarns for Jacquard textile design development

In modern Jacquard weaving, the application of yarn color variety is limited to electronic Jacquard machinery and realizing a wide scope of weave colors can be challenging. Therefore, when reproducing a pictorial image with a small yarn variety, artwork colors are defined by a CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow, and black) system and its primary color data are used to associate with weave structures. In alignment with a CMYK pattern layout, shaded weave structures are incorporated to expand the accessible gamut of weave colors and natural shading is realized by different cover factors in the warp and weft. The mixing effect of CMYK yarns is intended for resolving the technical limitations of current digital Jacquard weaving. In this study, quantitative research is designed to examine four yarn mixing effects for which pairs of CMYK yarns are superimposed (e.g., [C]+[M], [C]+[Y], [M]+[Y], [C]+[K], [M]+[K], [Y]+[K]) and 90 different weave colors are produced in six groups. Once they are formatted in a standardized size, weave samples are measured by a spectrophotometer and analyzed by three coordinates (L*, a*, and b*) of a CIELAB color system. As shown by the analysis results, the weave colors bear not only varied brightness, hue, and chroma alternations, but also a great similarity to the pigment mixing effect. In application of the color mixing effect, a new way of woven color presentation is achieved and introduced as a new development of Jacquard design

Modular Assembly of a Conserved Repetitive Sequence in the Spider Eggcase Silk: From Gene to Fiber

Spider silk features extraordinary toughness in combination with great biocompatibility and biodegradability, fascinating researchers to prepare artificial silk fibers inspired from the natural art of spinning. In addition to C- and N-terminal domain, a repeat unit from <i>Lactrodectus mactans</i> spider eggcase silks displays substantial sequence conservation across species. Herein, we attempt to spin the engineered tubuliform spidroin 1 (eTuSp1) by microfluidics in a mode of modular assembly comprising the genetic construction, micellar formation, phase separation, and further solidification. Based on the conserved gene sequence, a unique amphiphilic behavior was predicted and then verified by combined techniques of dynamic light scattering, transmission electron microscopy, and synchrotron radiation X-ray diffraction to reveal the formation of micelle-like structure. Through the employ of biomimetic microfluidic devices, desolvation of eTuSp1 was simplified by the nonsolvent induced phase separation in place of the conventional ions exchange and acidification. Both controlled by protein concentrations and flow rate ratios, silk fibers were assembled similar to these reported in other studies of spheres/spherical aggregates observed as intermediates. Because of the applied shear and elongational flow in microfluidic systems, these intermediates were forced to form fibrillar assemblies accompanied by the conformational transformation from α-helix to β-sheet. The resultant mechanical properties were investigated in response to the change of secondary structures and morphologies during spinning process. This work studies the sequence–structure–property relationship, providing comprehensive and systematic insight into the design rational on the preparation of artificial silk fibers from microscale to macroscale

Diamond-shaped shaded weave series created by transforming small twills to enrich the surface texture of woven Jacquards

Digital Jacquard textiles have been introduced through various approaches to the capability enhancement of color expression and novel design proposition in modern weaving. Because of its a wide scope of weave colors with a small number of fillings, the basic weave structure of satin is widely adopted in the creation of shaded weave series, as they are highly reliable in presenting the natural color shading with maximized luster. However, its surface texture is limited with consistent traverse lines attributed to regular stitching points in their structure combination. Therefore, a new silhouette of shaded weave series is proposed and explored with twills to enlarge and vary the woven texture effects. The shading effect with single twills will be presented in a linear and contrasting way; when small twill lines are cut and replaced, the converted format will enable the creation of a varied surface touch. By finding the base marks where the total interlacement of a repeat is proportionally divided, small twill lines are transformed by adding interweaving points to build into a series. Furthermore, the basic principles received from satin-based shaded series are applied to the achievement of gradient shading effects. In terms of weave pattern design, each color layer is individually designed with levels of grayscales and defines each color region and color density to achieve a high-quality color presentation, as well as a unique texture

Patterning technique for expanding color variety of Jacquard fabrics in alignment with shaded weave structures

This study aimed to enhance the capability of multiple weave color reproduction for Jacquard textiles. Today, the subtractive color mixing of CMYK color system is being widely used for rendering weave patterns and assorting filling yarn colors. However, as Jacquard color creation involves optical color mixing, the direct application of pigment mixing is limited to corresponding to an artwork that involves red, green, blue and saturated solid black. Since Jacquard colors are realized by opaque and non-blended material of yarns, it requires a different approach of light and pigment mixing to simulate colors of an original image in woven forms. Therefore, in this study, the optimization of weave color reproduction was approached to properly embrace the proposed color gamut of the CMYK model in digital Jacquard textiles. Based on the ink densities of the CMYK color scope, segmentation was applied in reflection of optical thread color mixing to attain optimal weave patterns. A pair of primary color layers was merged by defining a set of rules to classify individual primary and secondary color patterns to designate colored threads in associated regions, and weave structures were designed and aligned to generate varied levels of color shades in weaving form. The correlation between shaded weave structures and the primary color-based weave patterns were matched to present a faithful color reproduction in weaving