Advances in bio-derived cosmetic ingredients

Nature is rich in biologically active molecules of interest to the cosmetics industry. Brands are leveraging these “natural” chemicals to tap into the growing market for organic and “natural” products. Advances in chemical analysis and extraction technology were recently discussed in a symposium organized by Dr. Richard Blackburn, University of Leeds, at the 21st Annual Green Chemistry & Engineering Conference

Isolation and extraction of lucidin primeveroside from Rubia tinctorum L. and crystal structure elucidation

Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) has been used as a dye for over 2000 years with alizarin and purpurin the major natural dyes analysed from extractions undertaken. The use of ethanol as the solvent in the extraction process produced an extract that yielded four anthraquinone compounds lucidin primeveroside, ruberythric acid, alizarin and lucidin-ω-ethyl ether. Gravitational separation of the extract was used to record the first crystal structure of lucidin primeveroside, which is also the first ever known crystal structure of a glycoside containing anthraquinone moiety. The crystal structure along with 1H and 13C NMR helped elucidate and confirm the structure of this overlooked natural dye which has been shown to be a major compound in R. tinctorum L

IR study on hydrogen bonding in epoxy resin–silica nanocomposites

The chemical and physical interactions between ingredients in composites play an important role in the improvement of service properties. The nucleophilic addition between polymer and isophoron diisocyanate molecules was monitored by FT-IR technique. The intensity loss of isocyanate absorption band in conjunction with the intensity growth of carboxyl absorption band indicates the progress of reaction. FT-IR spectroscopy was also adopted to examine the intermolecular hydrogen bonding of epoxy resin with silica as well as intramolecular one within polymer matrix. The vibration frequency of carboxyl group (CO) and hydroxyl group (OH) shifts from 1736 to 1728 cm−1 and 3420 to 3414 cm−1, respectively, indicating the occurrence of hydrogen bonding between CO and OH. The vibration frequency of SiOH moves from 3435 to 3414 cm−1, suggesting the involvement of silica. Whereas the vibration frequency of pending OH in polymer chain moves from 3435 to 3420 cm−1 or 3414 cm−1, proposing that this kind of interaction can also happen within polymer matrix

The potential for regenerated protein fibres within a circular economy: lessons from the past can inform sustainable innovation in the textiles industry

Humanity is currently facing a crisis of excess, with a growing population and the trend towards disposable goods, and the world’s resources are under tremendous pressure. This is especially evident in the textiles industry, with increasing consumer numbers and the trend of ‘fast fashion’ causing demand to be at an all-time high, with non-renewable feedstocks depleting and production of natural fibres also under strain. Considering the future of textile production, it can be beneficial to investigate our past for inspiration towards more sustainable approaches. Much of the research into regenerated protein fibres was performed out of necessity during wartime, and while this demonstrates the potential for food waste to be exploited as a resource, the manufacturing methods used at the time now present issues for a circular economy due to the high amounts of toxic waste produced. Using a range of historical and modern literature sources, including journal articles, patents and conference papers, this review presents the historical precedent and research per-formed into azlons, regenerated fibres produced from waste protein-rich materials. Historical evidence shows that the success of these azlon fibres was short-lived, partly due to negative as-sociations with deprivation and hardship, alongside the emergence of alternative man-made fibres which were devoid of these connotations with never-before-seen physical properties. The social and political climate leading to the creation, and ultimate demise, of azlons is explored along with the influence of evolving technologies and the marketing of these textile products to consumers. Although the creation of products from waste is not a new concept, the literature has identified that the synergy between the challenges faced in a time of resource scarcity and the current trend of problematic excess reveals an exciting opportunity to learn from our past to create a greener future. Lessons that could help with the current crisis within the textile industry are extracted and pre-sented within the concept of a circular textiles economy. Our findings show that there is notable potential for one regenerated protein fibre, made from casein extracted from milk waste, to be manufactured within a localised, circular economy in conjunction with the principles of green chemistry and sustainable textiles technology

Enhancing the potential exploitation of food waste: Extraction, purification, and characterization of renewable specialty chemicals from blackcurrants (Ribes nigrum L.)

Natural colorants were extracted from renewable botanical sources, specifically waste epicarp from the blackcurrant fruit pressing industry. A process was developed which used acidified water extraction followed by a solid-phase extraction (SPE) purification stage which allowed the production of an anthocyanin-rich extract in good yields (ca. 2% w/w based on dry weight of raw material). The components in the extracts were extensively characterized by HPLC, mass spectrometry, IR, NMR and UV-Vis spectroscopy. HPLC confirmed presence of four anthocyanins: delphinidin-3-O-rutinoside (45%), cyanidin-3-O-rutinoside (31%) and the corresponding glucosides at 16% and 8%, respectively. On sequential liquid-liquid aqueous-organic partitioning of the post-SPE sample, monomeric anthocyanins (54.7%) and polymeric anthocyanins (18%) were found in the aqueous layer with 3-O-rutinosides of myricetin (3.1%) and quercetin (3.2%), whilst isopropylacetate achieved selective extraction of caffeic acid (3%), p-coumaric acid (5%), and myricetin (2.5%) and quercetin (3.2%) aglycons. 3-O-Glucosides of myricetin (3.1%) and quercetin (2%), along with nigrumin-p-coumarate (1%) and nigrumin ferulate (0.5%) were selectively extracted from the remaining aqueous fraction using ethylacetate. This allowed for near total quantification of the blackcurrant extract composition

Selective enzymatic lipophilization of anthocyanin glucosides from blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum L.) skin extract and characterization of esterified anthocyanins

Anthocyanins (ANC) are hydrophilic and water-soluble polyphenolic plant pigments. The current barriers to successful application of ANC in food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries are predominantly related to performance, stability, formulation properties, and color. Enzymatic acylation of ANC could increase their stability without compromising bioactivity and chromatic features. Lipophilization of ANC-rich blackcurrant skin extract with Candida antarctica lipase B and octanoic acid was selective to cyanidin and delphinidin glucosides, but not the corresponding rutinosides. The reaction was chemo- and regioselective for acylation at the primary alcohol of the glucose moieties, greatly facilitating separation of the different glycoside derivatives

A Multicomponent eHealth Intervention for Family Carers for People Affected by Psychosis: A Coproduced Design and Build Study

Background: Psychosis, including schizophrenia, is the most common severe mental illness affecting 1% of the population worldwide. A large number of people provide long-term support and care for a relative with psychosis. Although psychoeducational interventions, especially those delivered through a face-to-face group format, have an established evidence base for improving the caregiving experience, well-being, and health outcomes, large-scale implementation and access remain limited. There is a demand for such provision to be made through the internet for greater flexibility and wider access. Objective: This study aimed to integrate participatory research methodologies by the public, patients, and carers into the eHealth (electronic health) intervention design and build process to improve the product’s usability and acceptability. Methods: We adapted a structured eHealth intervention build method to include participatory research activities involving key stakeholders and end users to co-design and coproduce our intervention. An expert advisory group (EAG) comprising public involvement members led the formative design and build work using an agile build process. Carers independent from the study were consulted on the evolving drafts of the intervention prototype through focus group meetings. These results were fed back into the intervention build work continuously to ensure end users’ input inform every stage of the process. Results: An EAG comprising individuals with lived experience of psychosis, carers, health care professionals, researchers, voluntary organization workers, and eLearning experts (n=14) was established. A total of 4 coproduction workshops were held over 1 year during which the alpha and beta prototypes were designed and built through the participatory research work. Alongside this, 2 rounds of focus group study with carers (n=24, in 4 groups) were conducted to seek consultation on end users’ views and ideas to optimize the intervention design and usability. Finally, the EAG carried out a Web-based walk-through exercise on the intervention prototype and further refined it to make it ready for an online usability test. The final product contains multiple sections providing information on psychosis and related caregiving topics and interactive discussion forums with experts and peers for psychosocial support. It provides psychoeducation and psychosocial support for carers through the internet, promoting flexible access and individualized choices of information and support. Conclusions: The participatory research work led to the coproduction of a eHealth intervention called COPe-support (Carers fOr People with Psychosis e-support). We believe the study methodology, results, and output have optimized the intervention design and usability, fitting the end users’ needs and usage pattern. COPe-support is currently being tested for its effectiveness in promoting carers’ health outcome through an online randomized controlled trial. Trial Registration: ISRCTN Registry ISRCTN89563420; http://www.isrctn.com/ISRCTN8956342

Optimizing the colour and fabric of targets for the control of the tsetse fly Glossina fuscipes fuscipes

Background: Most cases of human African trypanosomiasis (HAT) start with a bite from one of the subspecies of Glossina fuscipes. Tsetse use a range of olfactory and visual stimuli to locate their hosts and this response can be exploited to lure tsetse to insecticide-treated targets thereby reducing transmission. To provide a rational basis for cost-effective designs of target, we undertook studies to identify the optimal target colour. Methodology/Principal Findings: On the Chamaunga islands of Lake Victoria , Kenya, studies were made of the numbers of G. fuscipes fuscipes attracted to targets consisting of a panel (25 cm square) of various coloured fabrics flanked by a panel (also 25 cm square) of fine black netting. Both panels were covered with an electrocuting grid to catch tsetse as they contacted the target. The reflectances of the 37 different-coloured cloth panels utilised in the study were measured spectrophotometrically. Catch was positively correlated with percentage reflectance at the blue (460 nm) wavelength and negatively correlated with reflectance at UV (360 nm) and green (520 nm) wavelengths. The best target was subjectively blue, with percentage reflectances of 3%, 29%, and 20% at 360 nm, 460 nm and 520 nm respectively. The worst target was also, subjectively, blue, but with high reflectances at UV (35% reflectance at 360 nm) wavelengths as well as blue (36% reflectance at 460 nm); the best low UV-reflecting blue caught 3× more tsetse than the high UV-reflecting blue. Conclusions/Significance: Insecticide-treated targets to control G. f. fuscipes should be blue with low reflectance in both the UV and green bands of the spectrum. Targets that are subjectively blue will perform poorly if they also reflect UV strongly. The selection of fabrics for targets should be guided by spectral analysis of the cloth across both the spectrum visible to humans and the UV region

The Occurrence of Photorhabdus-Like Toxin Complexes in Bacillus thuringiensis

Recently, genomic sequencing of a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) isolate from our collection revealed the presence of an apparent operon encoding an insecticidal toxin complex (Tca) similar to that first described from the entomopathogen Photorhabdus luminescens. To determine whether these genes are widespread among Bt strains, we screened isolates from the collection for the presence of tccC, one of the genes needed for the expression of fully functional toxin complexes. Among 81 isolates chosen to represent commonly encountered biochemical phenotypes, 17 were found to possess a tccC. Phylogenetic analysis of the 81 isolates by multilocus sequence typing revealed that all the isolates possessing a tccC gene were restricted to two sequence types related to Bt varieties morrisoni, tenebrionis, israelensis and toumanoffi. Sequencing of the ∼17 kb tca operon from two isolates representing each of the two sequence types revealed >99% sequence identity. Optical mapping of DNA from Bt isolates representing each of the sequence types revealed nearly identical plasmids of ca. 333 and 338 kbp, respectively. Selected isolates were found to be toxic to gypsy moth larvae, but were not as effective as a commercial strain of Bt kurstaki. Some isolates were found to inhibit growth of Colorado potato beetle. Custom Taqman® relative quantitative real-time PCR assays for Tc-encoding Bt revealed both tcaA and tcaB genes were expressed within infected gypsy moth larvae