Study on 3D modeling and pattern-making for upper garment（上衣の三次元モデルの構築およびパターンメーキングに関する研究）

信州大学(Shinshu university)博士（工学）ThesisZHANG JUN. Study on 3D modeling and pattern-making for upper garment（上衣の三次元モデルの構築およびパターンメーキングに関する研究）. 信州大学, 2017, 博士論文. 博士（工学）, 甲第663号, 平成29年03月20日授与.doctoral thesi

Transforming shape: a simultaneous approach to the body, cloth and print for garment and textile design (synthesising CAD with manual methods)

Printed textile and garment design are generally taught and practised as separate disciplines. Integrated CAD software enables textile and clothing designers to envisage printed garments by assimilating graphic imagery with 2D garment shapes, and 3D visualisations. Digital printing can be enlisted to transpose print-filled garment shapes directly onto cloth. This research challenges existing 2D practice by synthesising manual and CAD technologies, to explore the integration of print design and garment shape from a simultaneous, 3D perspective. This research has identified three fundamental archetypes of printed garment styles from Twentieth Century fashion: 'sculptural', 'architectural' and 'crossover'. The contrasting spatial characteristics and surface patterning inherent in these models provided tlýe theoretical and practical framework for the research. Design approaches such as'textile-led', 'garment-led'and 'the garment as canvas' highlighted the originality of the simultaneous design method, which embraces all of these concepts. This research recognises the body form as a positive influence within the printed textile and printed garment designing process, whereby modelled fabric shapes can be enlisted to determine mark making. The aim of the practice, to create printed garment designs from a 3D perspective, was facilitated by an original method of image capture, resulting in blueprinted toiles, or cyanoforms, that formed the basis of engineer-printed garments and textiles. Integrated CAD software provided the interface between manual modelling, design development and realisation, where draping software was employed to digitally craft 3D textiles. The practical and aesthetic characteristics of digital printing were tested through the printing of photographic-style, integrated garment prototypes. The design outcomes demonstrate that a simultaneous approach to the body, cloth and print can result in innovative textile vocabulary, that'plays a proactive role within the design equation, through its aesthetic integration with garment and form. The integration of print directly with the garment contour can result in a 3D orientated approach to printed garment design that is empathetic with the natural body shape

Transforming shape: hybrid practice as group activity

Printed textile and garment design are generally taught and practised as separate disciplines. Integrated CAD software enables textile and clothing designers to envisage printed garments by assimilating graphic imagery with 2D garment shapes and 3D visualizations. Digital fabric printing can be employed to transpose print-filled garment shapes directly onto cloth. During a recently completed practice-led PhD (1998-2003), I researched the aesthetic design potential of combining new CAD technology with garment modelling methods to create new innovative printed textiles/garments. The merging of physical and screen-based making resulted in a hybrid 3D approach to the body, cloth and print referred to as the 'simultaneous design method'. In 2001 this hybrid practice provided the catalyst for a collaborative textile research project at the Nottingham Trent University, UK. The group included surface, shape and multimedia designers. The key group aim was to explore the transforming effects of computer-aided textile design through dialogues between two and three dimensions. In parallel with my own practice, print and embroidery were considered from a 3D starting-point through the relating of geometric cloth shapes to the form. Each designer took an idiosyncratic approach to the selection and integration of imagery with the shapes. The novel consideration of the final modelled textile at the start of the designing process influenced each designer in different ways, leading to a collection of contrasting, original outcomes that were displayed in the exhibition Transforming Shape (UK 2001, Denmark 2003). The exhibition demonstrated the design opportunities (and limitations) of new and existing technologies, specifically the relationship between innovative textile imagery and three-dimensional form. The designs illustrated the premise that surface designs can be engineered through different pattern shapes and that engineer-printed shapes transform the body

The perception of comfort and fit of personal protective equipment in sport

During the design of sports equipment, the main focus is usually on physical performance attributes, neglecting key subjective factors such as feel and comfort. The personal protective equipment worn in sport is a typical example, where injury prevention has taken precedence over user comfort, but it is anticipated that with a new approach to the design process, comfort can be improved without sacrificing protection. Using cricket leg guards and taekwondo chest guards as an example, this study aimed to develop a systematic method for assessing user perceptions and incorporating them into the design process. Players perceptions of the factors that influence the comfort of cricket leg guards and taekwondo chest guards were elicited through the use of co-discovery sessions, focus groups and individual interviews, and analysed through an inductive process to produce a comfort model. The relative importance of each different comfort dimension was identified through the use of an online questionnaire utilising the analytical hierarchy process method. Through the combination of these methods, six general dimensions were identified with a weighting regarding the amount to which each one determines a user's perceived comfort. For both cricket and taekwondo, the majority of players ranked Fit as the most important factor affecting comfort. Experimental procedures were developed to objectively test the Fit of cricket leg guards, with regards to batting kinematics, running performance and contact pressure. These methods were combined with subjective assessments of leg guard performance, to determine if there was a relationship between users perceived comfort and objective test results. It was found that shot ROM and performance were not significantly affected by cricket leg guards, despite perceptions of increased restriction whilst wearing certain pads. Wearing cricket leg guards was found to significantly decrease running performance when compared to running without pads (p<0.05). In addition, it was found that the degree of impedance depended on pad design and could not solely be attributed to additional mass. These results correlated with the subjective assessment of three different leg guards, with respondents identifying the pad which had the largest influence on their running biomechanics and impeded their performance the most, as the most restrictive pad. Contact pressure under the pad and straps was also measured for four different leg guards whilst running. The results found that the top strap applied the greatest amount of pressure to the leg, especially at the point of maximum knee flexion. The peak pressure under the top strap was found to reach up to three times that of any other area of the pad. These results were reflected in the subjective assessment of the leg guards, with all nine subjects identifying the top strap as an area of discomfort for certain pads. The results also suggested there was a preference for pads with a larger more consistent contact area, as pad movement was perceived to increase when contact area variation was greater. Finally the results from this research were used to develop a product design specification (PDS) for a cricket leg guard, specifying size, mass, contact pressure and shape. The PDS was used to develop a concept design which would maximise comfort, whilst maintaining protection

The Economic Effects of Significant U.S. Import Restraints

[Excerpt] This is the seventh update of The Economic Effects of Significant U.S. Import Restraints. Since the first of these studies was published nearly 20 years ago, U.S. tariff rates have fallen, nontariff measures on imports have been removed, and trade has expanded markedly. This period has also seen increasing U.S. integration into global supply chains, the subject of a special topic in this report. The United States is one of the world’s most open economies. In 2010, the average U.S. tariff on all goods remained near its historic low of 1.3 percent, on an import-weighted basis, essentially unchanged from the previous update in 2009. Nonetheless, significant restraints on trade remain in certain sectors. The U.S. International Trade Commission (Commission) estimates that U.S. economic welfare, as defined by total public and private consumption, would increase by about $2.6 billion annually by 2015 if the United States unilaterally ended (“liberalized”) all significant restraints quantified in this report. Exports would expand by$9.0 billion and imports by $11.5 billion. These changes would result from removing import barriers in the following sectors: sugar, ethanol, canned tuna, dairy products, tobacco, textiles and apparel, and other high-tariff manufacturing sectors. As in previous updates, the simulations presented in this report measure the effects of unilateral liberalization of U.S. import restraints (i.e., the simulations assume that U.S. trading partners do not engage in any reciprocal liberalization). However, the effects on the U.S. economy can differ significantly when both the United States and its trading partners engage in reciprocal liberalization

Sustainability in design: now! Challenges and opportunities for design research, education and practice in the XXI century

Copyright @ 2010 Greenleaf PublicationsLeNS project funded by the Asia Link Programme, EuropeAid, European Commission

Obstacles to trade in the Pacific area: Proceedings of the Fourth Pacific Trade and Development Conference

The Fourth Pacific Trade and Development Conference was held in Ottawa, Canada, on October 7 to 10, 1971. The Conference program was outlined in the late summer of 1970, but it proved particularly topical in the wake of the currency and trade crisis following August 15, 1971. Although the realignment of currencies agreed in December has eased international monetary relationships, trade problems remain. Especially in the Pacific area, the potential of trade as an engine of economic growth and as a basis for constructive political relationships is difficult to overemphasize. The mutuality of interests in international trade between the developed countries of the region is well known. Of increasing importance is the export potential and performance of developing countries in South and East Asia. The future record of industrially advanced countries in reduction or control of barriers to trade affecting developing countries' exports will test the sincerity of many who have professed to favour the liberalization of trade as a stimulus to development. The willingness and ability of developed countries to adjust their industrial structure will be the major theme of the Fifth Trade and Development Conference scheduled for Tokyo in January, 1973. The Canadian host committee of the Fourth Conference in releasing the proceedings of the Conference wish to express appreciation to all those who have made possible the success of the Conference and the preparation of this volume. In particular, we wish to thank the public and private financial supporters in Australia, Canada, Japan, and the United States whose assistance has been essential. We also wish to thank those students, faculty, and staff members at Carleton who helped with local arrangements and the editing and preparation of the proceedings. The main responsibility for the latter task rested on Tom Burlington, who has recently gone to Japan to take up employment with the International Development Center of Japan

運動時の室内熱環境における生理学的および温冷感の応答に関する実験的研究

This work is an attempt to observe changes in physiological parameters (using wearable devices) and human thermal sensation (comfort) at common moderate-intensity exercise (e.g., construction sites, gyms) in a steady-state building environment, especially before and after a change of exercise status, and to establish a link between the two.1. To provide a systematic and detailed overview of the basic concepts, methods, and models related to thermal sensation (in static and exercise) and point out that the dynamic-static steps are inescapable problems in the study of exercise thermal sensation. Examines physiological parameters changes throughout the exercise process, especially around dynamic-static steps.2. To establish a link with the exercise thermal sensation using physiological parameters closely related to metabolic rate and easily measured. The predictive effects are compared.3. To examine the relationship between physiological parameters that have not been covered in previous studies and exercise thermal sensation, consider the influence of gender, BMI, and psychological factors on exercise thermal sensation.北九州市立大