Abstracts of Papers: Textile Society of America 16th Biennial Symposium

Abstracts of 175 papers: Monisha Ahmed — The Kashmir / Cashmere Shawl – Tradition and Transformation Philis Alvic — Eliza Calvert Hall, The Handwoven Coverlet Book, and Collecting Coverlet Patterns in Early Twentieth Century Appalachia Sarah Amarica — Global Threads: Histories of Labour and Cloth in Ann Hamilton and Ibrahim Mahama’s Installation Art Lynne Anderson — Schoolgirl Embroideries: Integrating Indigenous Motifs, Materials, and Text Jennifer Angus — Education through Co-Design Margaret Olugbemisola Areo and Adebowale Biodun Areo — Egungun: Concept, Content and the Dynamic Contextual Manifestations of Yoruba Ancestors Masquerade Alison Ariss — Wrapped in Wool: Coast Salish wool weaving, Vancouver, and unceded territory Joanne Arnett — The Best Dressed Nun in the Room: A Capsule Wardrobe Project Janice Arnold — FELT: The Fabric of Community: 3 Stories of Community Building with Traditional Feltmaking Nicole Asselin — Making and Unmaking: Reimagining Textile Waste Through Biodesign Mary Babcock — Notions from the Pacific: Embracing entanglement Suzi Ballenger and Charlotte Hamlin — Yours, mine and ours. Annin Barrett — Timberline Lodge Textiles: Creating a Sense of Place Kathryn Berenson — Italian Bedfellows: Tristan, Solomon and Bestes Kathryn Berenson — A Medieval Political Hanging Alice Bernardo — Reconnecting Local Resources Magali Berthon — Artisans Angkor: Reviving Cambodian Silk Crafts under French Patronage Vandana Bhandari — Namvali Textiles of Rajasthan: Culture and Counterculture Katharine Bissett-Johnson — Co-creating Craft; Australian Designers meet Artisans in India Ines Bogensperger — Hellenization and Cultural Change: Textiles in Documentary Papyri from Greco-Roman Egypt Darden Bradshaw — Contemporary Chilean Arpilleras: Writing Visual Culture Stephanie Bunn — Basketry and the ‘glocal’. Grass, straw, heather, rattan, - what’s in a ‘local’ Scottish basket? Jennifer Byram — Reawakening Choctaw Traditional Textiles Dominique Cardon — Ancient Colours for Today’s Colorists and Designers Robin Caudell — Common Sense & Pin Money: The Material Culture and Legacy of Lula Annie Butler 1909-2009 Debbie Chachra and Caitrin Lynch — Behind the Curtain: Textile Provenance as a New Frontier in Ethical Apparel Angela Clarke — Women’s Work: The Art and Ritual of Textile Production in the Italian Community of Vancouver Ruth Clifford — Balancing local tradition and global influences: design and business education for handloom weavers in India Sarah Clugage — The Tent-Dweller: Visual Markers of Migration in Art Sarah Confer — Dynamic Cultural Preservation in Peru: global influences and local impacts on traditional Andean weaving Geraldine Craig — Ia and Tcheu: locating a contemporary Hmong aesthetic Yasmine Dabbous — Protection and empowerment: The dual role textiles play among the Syrian refugee community in Sonja Dahl — Whitework: The Cloth and the Call to Action MJ Daines — Collecting and Constructing: Anni Albers\u27 migrant status and her interaction with indigenous textiles Jennifer Ling Datchuk and Anna Walker — The Personal is Political: Exploring Constructions of Identity in the Work of Jennifer Ling Datchuk Maggie D’Aversa — Resisting the Conversion of Silk Sutures to Synthetic Products in China. Is it cultural? Silvia Dolz — Fish in the desert - The North African textile tradition between indigenous identity and exogenous change in meaning Kelsie Doty — #NATURALDYE Penny Dransart — Mind’s Eye and Embodied Weaving: simultaneous contrasts of hue in Isluga textiles, northern Chile Eiluned Edwards — Handmade in India: re-branding Kachchhi block prints for global markets Eiluned Edwards — Samples from Sanganer: block prints commissioned for the Albert Hall Museum, Jaipur, India in 1899. Deborah Emmett — The embroidery artisans of the Kashmir Valley: cultural imports and exports from historical and contemporary perspectives. Åse Eriksen — The techniques of samitum, based on a reconstruction. — Joseph Fabish — Andamarcan Textiles Today: The Merging of Cultures Marianne Fairbanks — Weaving Lab: Public Production and Speculation Sarah Fee — The Origins of Chintz at the ROM: Collecting in the Name of Commerce Nancy Feldman — Shipibo Textiles 2010-2018: Artists of the Amazon Culturally Engaged, Deep Local to Pan Global Maria João Ferreira — Textiles, Trade and Taste Trish FitzSimons and Madelyn Shaw — The Fabric of War – The Global Trade in Australasian Wool from Crimea to Korea Trish FitzSimons and Madelyn Shaw — The Fabric of War – Wool and Local Land Wars in a Global Context Cynthia Fowler — Irish Identity in a Global Market: The Embroidered Landscapes of Lily Yeats Judy Frater — Closing the Power Gap Through Internet Technology: The Artisan View Maria Wronska-Friend — Batik of Java: global inspiration Paula Frisch — A Quilt for Now: My Patchwork Exploration of Safety, Threat & the Decisions We Make Dai Fujiwara — Color Hunting Julia Galliker — Ancient Textiles/Modern Hands: ‘Crowdsourcing’ Experimental Archaeology Through the Spiral Textile Project (spiraltextile.com) Medha Bhatt Ganguly — From the “Economic” to the “Symbolic”: The Journey of Trade beads from the Markets of Ujiji to the Dowries in Bead-work of Saurashtra — Xia Gao — Interweaving-Making Place and Place Making Surabi Ghosh — Carrying Cloth: Materials, Migration and Mediated Identity Denise Green — Mapping Regalia in Hupacasath Territory Rachel Green — Loss and Renewal: Chaguar Clothing of the Wichí of Argentina Gaby Greenlee — A Virgin Martyr in Indigenous Garb? A Curious Case of Andean Ancestry and Memorial Rites Recalled on a Christian Body Jane Groufsky — A Local Motif; Use of kōwhaiwhai patterns in printed textiles Louise Hamby — Milingimbi Artists Engagement with Koskela Liz Hammond-Kaarremaa — Looking at Coast Salish Textiles: Threads, twist and fibre Michele Hardy and Joanne Schmidt — Radical Access: Textiles and Museums Peter Harris and Showkat Ahmad Khan — Kashmir shawl weaving demonstration Joan Hart — The Deep Origins of Kashmir Shawls, Their Broad Dissemination and Changing Meaning Peggy Hart — Satinet, 1790-1860 Jana Hawley — Local Trash, Global Treasures Erica Hess — Developing Critical Understanding Through Design Anna Heywood-Jones — Tinctorial Cartographies: Plant, Dye and Place Donna Ho — Pajamas as (Banned) Streetwear in Shanghai: Local meets Global Jen Hoover — Shepherds and Shawls: Making Place in the Western Himalayas Laurel Horton — Dresden Embroidery in Early Kentucky Counterpanes Sylvia Houghteling — Kalamkari and Qalamkār-e Fārsī: A Continuous History of Cloth Connections between India and Iran I-Fen Huang — Local Crafts, World Exposition, and the Transformation of Embroidery in Early Twentieth Century China Jennifer Huang — Weaving Identities: Researching Atayal Textiles Barb Hunt — “Buttons all galore” – mother-of-pearl buttons as communication system Catherine Hunter — Indian Basketry in Yosemite Valley, 19th - 20th Century: Gertrude \u27Cosie\u27 Hutchings Mills, Tourists, and the National Park Service WhiteFeather Hunter — Biomateria; Biotextile Craft WhiteFeather Hunter — blóm + blóð Adil Iqbal — Cultivating Crafts: Weaving together Scottish and Pakistani narratives Adil Iqbal — Kasb-e-Hunar (Skilled Enclave) André Jackson — Self Identification Through Intersectionality: Turning Inward to Center, Normalize and Validate My Existence Carol James — Sprang Bonnets from Late Antique Egypt: Producer Knowledge and Exchange Through Experimental Reconstruction Donald Clay Johnson — Lucy Truman Aldrich, rebel collector of textiles Jess Jones — Lost Weavings of Atlanta: Mapping Historic Textile Works, Remnants, and Removals in Atlanta GA Lakshmi Kadambi — The Lambani Skirt Etsuko KageyamaNewly identified Iranian motif of silk textiles in Shōsōin storehouse in Japan Noelle Kahanu and Claire Regnault — He Makana Aloha: Co-curating memory, legacy and indigenous identity through the iconic Aloha Shirt Barbara Kahl — Using Invasive Species for Fiber and Dyeing: Controlling Weeds and Controlling Materials Costs for Artisans Elizabeth Kalbfleisch — Celebration or Craftsploitation? Cultural Diplomacy, Marketing and Coast Salish Knitting Jasleen Kandhari — The Kenyan Kanga Textile: Expressions of Swahili Identity and Cross Cultural Influences from India Miwa Kanetani and Ayami Nakatani — Unweaving textiles, disentangling ropes: Exploration of “lineware” as an analytical category Anjali Karolia and Jyoti Navlani — Balotra: the transforming journey for urban demands Anna Rose Keefe — Re-fashioning Newport: Reuse of Textiles during the Gilded Age Minjee Kim — Korean Patchwork Textiles: From Boudoir Craft to Global Collection Desiree Koslin — Pathfinding Restart: crossing tradition, activism and contemporaneity in Sami Art Sumru Krody — Occam’s Razor: Origins of a Classical Turkish Carpet Design Ashley Kubley — Lost Arts Found: Henequen Artisanship of the Modern Maya Ashley Kubley — Coarse Craft: An Investigation into the Re-emergence of Traditional Mayan Fiber Craftsmanship and Neo-Artisanal Culture in the Post-industrial Landscape of Yucatan Sabena Kull — A Seventeenth-century South American Hanging and Valance: Embroidering Imperial Power and Local Identity in Colonial Peru Eleanor Laughlin — The Beata’s Rebozo: A Garment of Religious Devotion and Freedom Margaret Leininger — India to Appalachia: How Cottage Industries Preserve Textile Heritage Beverly Lemire — Native American Embroidered Goods in the 19th-Century British Empire: Fashioning New Meanings Precious Lovell — Reinterpreting European Cloth Through Afro-Brazilian Culture Shannon Ludington — Embroidering Paradise: Suzanis As a Place of Creative Agency and Acculturation For Uzbek Women in 19th Century Bukhara Kristin Scheel — The meaning and purpose of ancient designs in today’s fashion designs – appropriation and power? Suzanne MacAulay — Hapsburg Eagles and Rattlesnakes: Localizing Embroidery Motifs on the Spanish Colonial Frontier Zone Dakota Mace — Woven Juxtaposition: Discourse on The Appropriation of Native American Design & Symbolism Hinda Mandell — Frederick and Anna Douglass\u27s Parking Lot Hinda Mandell — Frederick and Anna Douglass\u27s Parking Lot: Yarn as Commemorative Tool Fighting Urban Renewal Gary Markle — Wear/Where Do We Belong? Ivana Markova — Silybum Marianum Seed Fibers: A Comparison Analysis of Morphological Characteristics Paula Matthusen and Olivia Valentine — between systems and grounds: a generative, sonic textile construction and installation system Nina Maturu — Sustaining Weaver’s Craft and Livelihoods in Andhra Pradesh, India Tara Mayer — Displaced Objects of Empire in the Museum of Vancouver: The 1930s Detritus of Imperial Travel Louise Mitchell — Mary Jane Hannaford (1840- 1930) and her applique quilts Nazanin Hedayat Munroe — Wrapped Up: Talismanic Garments in Early Modern Islamic Culture Addison Nace — Weaving Authenticity: Artesanías or the Art of the Textile in Chiapas, Mexico Vanessa Nicholas — Recovering Canadian Ecology in a Quilt of Maple Leaves Gabriela Nirino — Blue is Never Just a Color Sara Oka — No Sweat Keiko Okamoto — The Modern Development of Kyoto Textiles - The Processes and Designs of Hand-Painted Yūzen Dyeing Between 1950 and the Present Sumiyo Okumura — Silk Velvets Identified as Byzantine: Were Silk Velvets Woven under the Byzantine Empire? Emily Pascoe — Local Wear Susan Pavel — du\u27kWXaXa\u27?t3w3l Sacred Change for Each Other Susan Pavel — Gifts from The Creator Jessica Payne — Shetland Lace Knitting: transformation through relocation Elena Phipps — Weaving Brilliance in Bolivian Aymara Textile Traditions Barbara Setsu Pickett — Rahul Jain\u27s Velvet Drawloom: An Example of Deep Local to Pan Global — Janet Pollock — Ties that Bind: Finding Meaning in the Making of Sacred Textiles María Dávila and Eduardo Portillo — From Silk to Venezuelan fibers Jane Przybysz — Place-Based Post-WWII Polish Textiles Sarah Quinton — Home and Away: Seeing through textiles as a curatorial practice Bibiana Ramonda — Carpets in Cordoba, Argentina. Between cross-culturalization and a local expression Anna Richard and Roxane Shaughnessy — The Untold Story of Inuit Printed Fabric Experiments from Cape Dorset, Nunavut, Canada Vivienne Richmond — Stitching empire, shaping minds: the colonial dissemination of British needlework instruction Nancy Rosoff — Rayed Head Imagery on Nasca, Sihuas, and Pucara Textiles during the Early Intermediate Period Annie Ross — Indigenous Sustainable Technologies and Ecosystems: Weave it Back Together Kathryn RoussoContaining Tradition, Embracing Change: Weaving Together Plant Materials in northern Latin America. Ann Pollard Rowe — The Cuzco Woman\u27s Shawl MacKenzie Moon Ryan — Swahili Coastal Chic: Kanga Cloth in Photograph and Swatch ca. 1900 Stephanie Sabo — Conflict Zones: Cultural Exchange and Labor Power in the Production of Contemporary Art Textile Works Yara Saegh and Anne Bissonette — The Sultan’s Carpet: An Investigation of an Ottoman Cairene Textile in the Collection of the Nickle Galleries Ann Salmonson — The Master’s Inheritance: Passing On Wuhan Han Embroidery Rajarshi Sangupta — An Artisanal History of Kalam? Joan Saverino — Ozaturu: A Calabrian Bed Covering, Local Embodiment, and Women’s Expressivity Alice Scherer — From Basket Making to Beadworking: Loose-Warp Woven Beadwork of the Tlingit, Wasco, and Pit River Indians Vera Sheehan — N’Bamakwana Lasawaw8ganek N’Babajigwezijik, “We Wear the Clothing of Our Ancestors” Angela Sheng — The Chinese Contribution to the Samitum? Revisiting the so-called “Zandaniji” and Other Finds in Central Asia and China, 5th - 10th Century Rachel Silberstein — Wearing Other People’s Clothes: The Second-Hand Clothes Seller in Turn of the Century China Juliana Silva — Living Organisms for Living Spaces Maya Stanfield-MazziThe Passion Cloths of Chachapoyas, Peru: Eternal Life Expressed in a Local Idiom Lila Stone — The Radical Fiber Arts Practices of The Yarn Mission: A Case Study Amy Swanson — Kyrgyzstan\u27s \u27Deep Local\u27 Fiber and Textile Traditions at a Crossroads Lee Talbot — Embroidery and the Opening of Korea in the Late 19th /Early 20th Century — Dr. Angharad Thomas — Sanquhar gloves: an exemplification of Deep Local to Pan Global? Diana Thomas — The Wagga Quilt in History and Fiction Kelly Thompson — Weaving a Turn: translating data, material and space. Natasha Thoreson — Revealing a New Tradition: Reevaluating British Printed Textiles of the 1970s Cara Tremain — Amid Bodies and Spaces: Textiles in the Ancient Maya World Virginia Gardner Troy — Promoting American Textiles Abroad at Midcentury Kendra Van CleaveThe Lévite Dress: Untangling the Cultural Influences of Eighteenth-Century French Fashion Lisa VandenBerghe — The “Deep Local” of Domestic Needlework in Early Modern England Kathleen Vaughan — The Urban River as Entity and Imaginary: Textile mapping and storytelling of the St. Lawrence shoreline at Pointe-St-Charles Marianne Vedeler — The Social Fabric of Silk in the Age of the Vikings Carol Ventura — Tapestry Crochet in the Americas, Europe, Africa, and the Middle East: Tradition and Innovation Mercy Wanduara — Looking at the Past and Current Status of Kenya’s textiles and clothing Wendy Weiss — Mashru Redux: from the Calico Museum in Ahmedabad to a Loom in the Great Plains Eileen Wheeler — Manipulating the Threads of Culture: Contemporary Shibori Artist Yvonne Wakabayashi Liz Williamson — Local colour: the search for a plant dye industry in Australia Arielle Winnik — Understanding Clothing in Heaven: Local Maronite Burial Practices in the 13th century CE Jacqueline Witkowski — Threading together politics and poetics in Cecilia Vicuña’s fibre art Stephanie Wood — Mesoamerican (Text)iles: Persistence of Indigenous Iconography in Women’s Weaving Masako Yoshida — The Global Influence of China and Europe on Local Japanese Tapestries from the 19th to early 20th Centuries Callen Zimmerman — Getting Located: Queer Semiotics in Dres

Textile Society of America- Abstracts and Biographies

TSA Abstracts and Biographies, September 2012

Virtual Heritage

Virtual heritage has been explained as virtual reality applied to cultural heritage, but this definition only scratches the surface of the fascinating applications, tools and challenges of this fast-changing interdisciplinary field. This book provides an accessible but concise edited coverage of the main topics, tools and issues in virtual heritage. Leading international scholars have provided chapters to explain current issues in accuracy and precision; challenges in adopting advanced animation techniques; shows how archaeological learning can be developed in Minecraft; they propose mixed reality is conceptual rather than just technical; they explore how useful Linked Open Data can be for art history; explain how accessible photogrammetry can be but also ethical and practical issues for applying at scale; provide insight into how to provide interaction in museums involving the wider public; and describe issues in evaluating virtual heritage projects not often addressed even in scholarly papers. The book will be of particular interest to students and scholars in museum studies, digital archaeology, heritage studies, architectural history and modelling, virtual environments

Layered Approaches - Woven eTextile Explorations Through Applied Textile Thinking

Woven structures form the most common type of textile in our everyday life. Their potential for eTextile development, ranging from component integration to entirely woven user interfaces, has invited researchers from various fields to explore how weaving can expand the interactive capabilities of textile surfaces around us. However, eTextile literature typically considers weaving as a method of constructing, and rarely acknowledges the reflective nature of weaving, and the insights related to thinking associated with textile design practices, that is, textile thinking, are often sparingly described. The overarching research question in this thesis is how can weaving be used to explore new concepts and design opportunities for eTextiles, and it is examined through five academic publications. The exploration of textile thinking was carried out through a practice-based design research approach on technical woven eTextile development. The primary methods for data collection were the woven textile design practices and semi-structured interviews, complemented by reviewing grey and academic literature related to woven eTextiles. The first study investigated how the orthogonal yarn architecture of woven structures enables the integration of electrical circuitry. The second study examined how electrically functional structures and sensorial properties of a textile surface can be designed in parallel to form a user interface for an interactive textile object through a case of an interactive hand puppet. The third study included an exploratory weaving process to map the possibilities of multi-layer weaves for woven eTextile development through accumulative design experimentation. The fourth study reviewed eTextile literature through the lens of woven textile design to understand how weaving has been used in eTextile research across different disciplines. The review identified woven structures whose potential for eTextile development has remained uncharted. The fifth study examined the role of weaving within an interdisciplinary eTextile material development process by focusing on the experiences of the researchers working on a project developing yarn-like actuators for shape-changing interactive textiles. The practice-based approach grounded on textile thinking was found to be well-suited for mapping the design space of woven eTextiles to discover new research opportunities. The approach enables accessing methods based on textile design and construction skills and conducting the investigation through the possibilities of weaving. As a core contribution, this thesis proposes a model for approaching woven eTextiles as electrically functional material systems, in which woven textiles' structural hierarchy collides with circuit design principles

Abstracts

Abstracts A-