Water waves over a rough bottom in the shallow water regime

This is a study of the Euler equations for free surface water waves in the case of varying bathymetry, considering the problem in the shallow water scaling regime. In the case of rapidly varying periodic bottom boundaries this is a problem of homogenization theory. In this setting we derive a new model system of equations, consisting of the classical shallow water equations coupled with nonlocal evolution equations for a periodic corrector term. We also exhibit a new resonance phenomenon between surface waves and a periodic bottom. This resonance, which gives rise to secular growth of surface wave patterns, can be viewed as a nonlinear generalization of the classical Bragg resonance. We justify the derivation of our model with a rigorous mathematical analysis of the scaling limit and the resulting error terms. The principal issue is that the shallow water limit and the homogenization process must be performed simultaneously. Our model equations and the error analysis are valid for both the two- and the three-dimensional physical problems.Comment: Revised version, to appear in Annales de l'Institut Henri Poincar\'

Modulational instability in some shallow water wave models

Modulational or Benjamin-Feir instability is a well known phenomenon of Stokes' periodic waves on the water surface. In this dissertation, we study this phenomenon for periodic traveling wave solutions of various shallow water wave models. We study the spectral stability or instability with respect to long wave length perturbations of small amplitude periodic traveling waves of shallow water wave models like Benjamin-Bona-Mahony and Camassa-Holm equations. We propose a bi-directional shallow water model which generalizes Whitham equation to contain the nonlinearities of nonlinear shallow water equations. The analysis yields a modulational instability index for each model which is solely determined by the wavenumber of underlying periodic traveling wave. For a fixed wavenumber, the sign of the index determines modulational instability. We also includes the effects of surface tension in full-dispersion shallow water models and study its effects on modulational instability

Evolution of solitary waves and undular bores in shallow-water flows over a gradual slope with bottom friction

This paper considers the propagation of shallow-water solitary and nonlinear periodic waves over a gradual slope with bottom friction in the framework of a variable-coefficient Korteweg-de Vries equation. We use the Whitham averaging method, using a recent development of this theory for perturbed integrable equations. This general approach enables us not only to improve known results on the adiabatic evolution of isolated solitary waves and periodic wave trains in the presence of variable topography and bottom friction, modelled by the Chezy law, but also, importantly, to study the effects of these factors on the propagation of undular bores, which are essentially unsteady in the system under consideration. In particular, it is shown that the combined action of variable topography and bottom friction generally imposes certain global restrictions on the undular bore propagation so that the evolution of the leading solitary wave can be substantially different from that of an isolated solitary wave with the same initial amplitude. This non-local effect is due to nonlinear wave interactions within the undular bore and can lead to an additional solitary wave amplitude growth, which cannot be predicted in the framework of the traditional adiabatic approach to the propagation of solitary waves in slowly varying media

(R1992) RBF-PS Method for Eventual Periodicity of Generalized Kawahara Equation

In engineering and mathematical physics, nonlinear evolutionary equations play an important role. Kawahara equation is one of the famous nonlinear evolution equation appeared in the theories of shallow water waves possessing surface tension, capillary-gravity waves and also magneto-acoustic waves in a plasma. Another specific subjective parts of arrangements for some of evolution equations evidenced by findings link belonging to their long-term actions named as eventual time periodicity discovered over solutions to IBVPs (initial-boundary-value problems). Here we investigate the solution’s eventual periodicity for generalized fifth order Kawahara equation (IBVP) on bounded domain in combination with periodic boundary conditions numerically exploiting mesh-free technique called as Radial basis function pseudo spectral (RBF-PS) method

Unsteady undular bores in fully nonlinear shallow-water theory

We consider unsteady undular bores for a pair of coupled equations of Boussinesq-type which contain the familiar fully nonlinear dissipationless shallow-water dynamics and the leading-order fully nonlinear dispersive terms. This system contains one horizontal space dimension and time and can be systematically derived from the full Euler equations for irrotational flows with a free surface using a standard long-wave asymptotic expansion. In this context the system was first derived by Su and Gardner. It coincides with the one-dimensional flat-bottom reduction of the Green-Naghdi system and, additionally, has recently found a number of fluid dynamics applications other than the present context of shallow-water gravity waves. We then use the Whitham modulation theory for a one-phase periodic travelling wave to obtain an asymptotic analytical description of an undular bore in the Su-Gardner system for a full range of "depth" ratios across the bore. The positions of the leading and trailing edges of the undular bore and the amplitude of the leading solitary wave of the bore are found as functions of this "depth ratio". The formation of a partial undular bore with a rapidly-varying finite-amplitude trailing wave front is predicted for ``depth ratios'' across the bore exceeding 1.43. The analytical results from the modulation theory are shown to be in excellent agreement with full numerical solutions for the development of an undular bore in the Su-Gardner system.Comment: Revised version accepted for publication in Phys. Fluids, 51 pages, 9 figure