The use of imaging systems to monitor shoreline dynamics

The development of imaging systems is nowadays established as one of the most powerful and reliable tools for monitoring beach morphodynamics. Two different techniques for shoreline detection are presented here and, in one case, applied to the study of beach width oscillations on a sandy beach (Pauanui Beach, New Zealand). Results indicate that images can provide datasets whose length and sample interval are accurate enough to resolve inter-annual and seasonal oscillations, and long-term trends. Similarly, imaging systems can be extremely useful in determining the statistics of rip current occurrence. Further improvements in accuracy and reliability are expected with the recent introduction of digital systems

The use of video imagery to analyse groundwater and shoreline dynamics on a dissipative beach

Groundwater seepage is known to influence beach erosion and accretion processes. However, field measurements of the variation of the groundwater seepage line (GWSL) and the vertical elevation difference between the GWSL and the shoreline are limited. We developed a methodology to extract the temporal variability of the shoreline and the wet-dry boundary using video imagery, with the overarching aim to examine elevation differences between the wet-dry boundary and the shoreline position in relation to rainfall and wave characteristics, during a tidal cycle. The wet-dry boundary was detected from 10-minute time-averaged images collected at Ngaranui Beach, Raglan, New Zealand. An algorithm discriminated between the dry and wet cells using a threshold related to the maximum of the red, green and blue intensities in Hue-Saturation-Value. Field measurements showed this corresponded to the location where the watertable was within 2 cm of the beachface surface. Timestacks, time series of pixels extracted from cross-shore transects in the video imagery, were used to determine the location of the shoreline by manually digitizing the maximum run-up and minimum run-down location for each swash cycle, and averaging the result. In our test data set of 14 days covering a range of wave and rainfall conditions, we found 6 days when the elevation difference between the wet-dry boundary and the shoreline remained approximately constant during the tidal cycle. For these days, the wet-dry boundary corresponded to the upper limit of the swash zone. On the other 8 days, the wet-dry boundary and the shoreline decoupled with falling tide, leading to elevation differences of up to 2.5 m at low tide. Elevation differences between the GWSL and the shoreline at low-tide were particularly large when the cumulative rainfall in the preceding month was greater than 200 mm. This research shows that the wet-dry boundary (such as often used in video shoreline-finding algorithms) is related to groundwater seepage on low-sloped, medium to fine sand beaches such as Ngaranui Beach (mean grain size~0.27 mm, beach slope ~1:70) and may not be a good indicator of the position of the shoreline

Coastal monitoring and feature estimation with small format cameras: application to the shoreline of Monte Hermoso, Argentina

Image and video processing of natural phenomena is one of the preferred non-invasive monitoring techniques for environmental studies that is, however, limited through the high cost of the required equipment and the limited access and precision of the processing algorithms. In this work we propose a low cost methodology for environmental studies using unexpensive off-the-shelf hardware and simple yet powerful processing algorithms. The images are taken using small format RGB cameras and processed in standard laptop equipments using open source libraries and processing algorithms specifically developed in general purpose programming languages. We applied this methodology to the coastal monitoring the shoreline of Monte Hermoso, Argentina, aimed at establishing accurate measurements of specific coastal features, for instance the coastal length. The experimental results show that our proposed unsupervised processing algorithm obtains results with a very high level of accuracy.VII Workshop Computación Gráfica, Imágenes y Visualización (WCGIV)Red de Universidades con Carreras en Informática (RedUNCI

Developing a remote sensing system based on X-band radar technology for coastal morphodynamics study

New data processing techniques are proposed for the assessment of scopes and limitations from radar-derived sea state parameters, coastline evolution and water depth estimates. Most of the raised research is focused on Colombian Caribbean coast and the Western Mediterranean Sea. First, a novel procedure to mitigate shadowing in radar images is proposed. The method compensates distortions introduced by the radar acquisition process and the power decay of the radar signal along range applying image enhancement techniques through a couple of pre-processing steps based on filtering and interpolation. Results reveal that the proposed methodology reproduces with high accuracy the sea state parameters in nearshore areas. The improvement resulting from the proposed method is assessed in a coral reef barrier, introducing a completely novel use for X-Band radar in coastal environments. So far, wave energy dissipation on a coral reef barrier has been studied by a few in-situ sensors placed in a straight line, perpendicular to the coastline, but never been described using marine radars. In this context, marine radar images are used to describe prominent features of coral reefs, including the delineation of reef morphological structure, wave energy dissipation and wave transformation processes in the lagoon of San Andres Island barrier-reef system. Results show that reef attenuates incident waves by approximately 75% due to both frictional and wave breaking dissipation, with an equivalent bottom roughness of 0.20 m and a wave friction factor of 0.18. These parameters are comparable with estimates reported in other shallow coral reef lagoons as well as at meadow canopies, obtained using in-situ measurements of wave parameters.DoctoradoDoctor en Ingeniería Eléctrica y Electrónic

Nearshore hydrodynamics and morphology derived from video imagery

Tese de doutoramento, Geologia (Geodinâmica Externa), Universidade de Lisboa, Faculdade de Ciências, 2018The coastal zone is the dynamic interface between the land and the ocean. Natural processes, including wave action, flooding and coastal erosion, often endanger human occupation and the use of the littoral. It is therefore essential to improve our understanding of the physical processes occurring at the coast, particularly those related with coastal morphodynamics. Due to the complexity of the coastal environment, littoral studies should be as comprehensive as possible, covering both hydrodynamic forcing and morphological response. However, conventional in-situ survey methods involve the use of instrumentation which, due to the logistical commitments, do not provide the required time-space scales. Remote sensing methods emerge in this context as an interesting alternative solution to yield simultaneous high temporal frequency and high spatial resolution observations of the nearshore processes. Among others, shore-based video remote sensing systems have been proved, over the last three decades, as a cost-efficient and high-quality tool to support coastal scientists and managers. Video monitoring installations offer excellent spatio-temporal resolutions, in combination with cost-efficient long-term data acquisition. This dissertation aims to present new conceptual models and video imagery tools to assess nearshore morphodynamics. This objective was accomplished through the development of a set of efficient computational tools to extract synoptic hydrodynamic and morphology information from video images. Data used in this work were acquired at five different study sites located worldwide. At three sites, video data were collected from dedicated video systems installed for scientific purpose. Two more additional video data sets were derived from the acquisition of online-streaming surfcams, which are camera infrastructures installed at the coast to provide remote visual information of sea state to surf users. A stand-alone set of algorithm was built to process and to geo-reference the acquired video sequence using already existing software. In addition, the automated processing is set to produce special images, namely Timex Variance and Timestack. A first video-based technique exploited the pixel intensity variation of Timestack images to characterize nearshore hydrodynamics. The standard deviation of pixel intensity was successfully related to the spatial distribution of wave transformation domains. Therefore, shoaling, surf and swash zones could be clearly identified in the nearshore profile covered by the image. This technique provides a new tool to study the nearshore dynamics, as the extent of wave domains can be related with distinctive morphodynamic behaviour. The method can be also directly applied to Variance images, hence it offers the possibility of extending such studies to the alongshore dimension. A second methodology developed in the scope of the present work exploited the use of pixel intensity average of Timestack images to estimate wave breaking height. Breakpoint locations and pixel intensity profiles were used to define the cross-shore breaking pattern length visible on a time-averaged image, here defined as the parameter. A first approach coupled to the available bathymetry to solve a simple conceptual model for finding breaker height. Wave breaking height estimates yield a Normalized Root Mean Square Error (NRMSE) of 14% when compared to numerical model results, for offshore wave heights ranging from 1.6 m to 3.5 m. A second approach proposed the relationship /24 to replace water depth parameter on the simplest wave height calculation formula, which multiplies water depth by the breaker index. The technique can be directly applied on Timex, therefore images from four different sites were used to test its validity, obtaining an NRMSE of about 22% for a wide range of wave heights. A third methodology aimed to investigate the possibility of combining two shorebased remote sensing techniques, 2D terrestrial LiDAR and video imagery to perform detailed beach intertidal topography. 2D LiDAR provided precise shoreline elevation along a cross-shore beach transect, while shoreline contour was detected on Timex images in the alongshore dimension. The dataset from both instruments were complemented to perform 3D beach intertidal topography mapping with a Root Mean Square Error (RMSE) of approximately 0.12 m. Finally, a method to assess nearshore bathymetry was developed. The method is based on a depth inversion technique, where wave celerity was estimated using wave trajectories visible on Timestacks. The procedure differentiates the waves in the shoaling and breaking zones and then estimates local depth from shallow or intermediate water equations. In the test case, bathymetry was mapped till a depth of 11 m with relative short time observations (5 hours), registering a RMSE of about 0.46 m when compared to ground truth data. The techniques herein developed allow to extract from video images some of the key drivers of nearshore morphodynamics, such as wave breaking height and wave period, as well as the main morphological features, namely subtidal bathymetry and intertidal beach topography. The combination of the methodologies presented in this thesis provides a comprehensive coverage of nearshore processes, enabling a synoptic representation of hydrodynamics and morphology. These methodologies may foster the implementation of new video-based operational systems and support the quasi-real time determination of coastal indicators and early warning systems for coastal hazards.Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia (FCT), SFRH/BD/52558/201

Shoreline Variation and Beach Rotation of Pauanui Beach

Shoreline variation over short, medium and long term time scales is well studied and documented. Rotation studies however have only focused on the phenomenon occurring on embayed beaches. This type morphological change is known to be caused by variations in wave climate such as wave approach direction and energy flux. Rotation studies on other beach classifications are limited, specifically on the potential of harbour adjacent beaches to rotate. Given the highly variable nature of estuaries and their impact on sediment supply to these flanking beaches, rotation could be exacerbated and aggravate existing localised erosion as a result. This thesis uses a video imagery shoreline dataset to determine the shoreline variation and beach rotation of Pauanui Beach, a harbour adjacent beach. Comparisons are then made to neighbouring Tairua Beach, an embayed beach. The shoreline over 2002, 2003 and 2004 displayed variation at short, medium and long term scales. Large wave events exceeding 4 m in significant wave height eroded beach profiles until accretion occurred during lull periods. Alongshore uniformity of this erosion pattern was not consistent throughout the timeseries at both beaches indicating the phenomenon of beach rotation. Pauanui transects moved in unison with each other, while an out of phase relationship existed between the Tairua transects. Seasonal changes in wave climate also influenced shoreline change however consistent cycles were not evident at both Pauanui and Tairua until 2004 where summer accretion and winter erosion dominated. The effects of ENSO were also observable in the long term where the shoreline gradually accreted with the long term negative ENSO index. Pauanui accretion quantity was much larger than Tairua over the same period. Rotation phenomenon at Pauanui was caused by a strong variation in cross shore shoreline position while Tairua demonstrated a strong out of phase behaviour at either end of the beach. Wave models were generated to determine the effect of islands inshore of the generating conditions. Shadowing effects were highly noticeable on the wave climate projected onto the beach, affecting the rotation and mean shoreline position. Alongshore currents were generated which affected the sediment transport to these rotated areas of beach. Based on these results, the two beaches responded similarly during erosion, accretion and rotation events. Alongshore uniformity does not exist alongshore of the two beaches as wave climate variations are created by the offshore island

UBathy: a new approach for bathymetric inversion from video imagery

A new approach to infer the bathymetry from coastal video monitoring systems is presented. The methodology uses principal component analysis of the Hilbert transform of video images to obtain the components of the wave propagation field and their corresponding frequency and wavenumber. Incident and reflected constituents and subharmonics components are also found. Local water depth is then successfully estimated through wave dispersion relationship. The method is first applied to monochromatic and polychromatic synthetic wave trains propagated using linear wave theory over an alongshore uniform bathymetry in order to analyze the influence of different parameters on the results. To assess the ability of the approach to infer the bathymetry under more realistic conditions and to explore the influence of other parameters, nonlinear wave propagation is also performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model over a complex bathymetry. In the synthetic cases, the relative root mean square error obtained in bathymetry recovery (for water depths 0.75m¿h¿8.0m) ranges from ~1% to ~3% for infinitesimal-amplitude wave cases (monochromatic or polychromatic) to ~15% in the most complex case (nonlinear polychromatic waves). Finally, the new methodology is satisfactorily validated through a real field site video.Postprint (published version

Seafloor characterization using airborne hyperspectral co-registration procedures independent from attitude and positioning sensors

The advance of remote-sensing technology and data-storage capabilities has progressed in the last decade to commercial multi-sensor data collection. There is a constant need to characterize, quantify and monitor the coastal areas for habitat research and coastal management. In this paper, we present work on seafloor characterization that uses hyperspectral imagery (HSI). The HSI data allows the operator to extend seafloor characterization from multibeam backscatter towards land and thus creates a seamless ocean-to-land characterization of the littoral zone

Shoreline extraction based on an active connection matrix (ACM) image enhancement strategy

Coastal environments are facing constant changes over time due to their dynamic nature and geological, geomorphological, hydrodynamic, biological, climatic and anthropogenic factors. For these reasons, the monitoring of these areas is crucial for the safeguarding of the cultural heritage and the populations living there. The focus of this paper is shoreline extraction by means of an experimental algorithm, called J-Net Dynamic (Semeion Research Center of Sciences of Communication, Rome, Italy). It was tested on two types of image: a very high resolution (VHR) multispectral image (WorldView-2) and a high resolution (HR) radar synthetic aperture radar (SAR) image (Sentinel-1). The extracted shorelines were compared with those manually digitized for both images independently. The results obtained with the J-Net Dynamic algorithm were also compared with common algorithms, widely used in the literature, including theWorldView water index and the Canny edge detector. The results show that the experimental algorithm is more effective than the others, as it improves shoreline extraction accuracy both in the optical and SAR images