Nested Radar Systems for Remote Coastal Observations

Advances in radar technology now allow the observation of sea surface features at multiple scales, from kilometers, down to metres. In the same manner that nested models are used at different resolutions, nested radars of different frequencies can be used to provide data on sea surface features at various resolutions. A new radar system in the millimeter wave-band has now been demonstrated with a resolution of <1m. This MMW-radar was deployed in a nested configuration with an X-band marine radar from a beach near Faro in Portugal. The results from the two systems show how the MMW-radar can image fine detail surf zone and swash processes to a range of O(200m), while the marine radar provides lower resolution images of O(10m) to longer ranges of O(2km). Data from the two nested radars are shown from a recent deployment on a barrier beach in the Ria Formosa region of the Algarve, Portugal. The data from these nested radars are analysed to map wavelengths in 2-D and a non-linear bathymetric inversion is used on both sets of data to estimate the bathymetry of the imaged area. Comparisons with in-situ surveys demonstrate the accuracy of this technique

High Resolution Current & Bathymetry Determined by Nautical X-Band Radar in Shallow Waters

The wave and current monitoring system WaMoS II is a remote sensing system based on a nautical X-Band radar generally used for navigation and ship traffic control. It has been used in recent years to monitor sea state information from moored platforms, coastal sites and moving vessels. A nautical radar can scan the sea surface over a large area (~ 10km2 ) with a high spatial (~7.5m) and temporal resolution (~2s). Directionalwave spectra and standard sea state parameters such as significant wave height, peak wave period and direction can be derived by analyzing the sea surface image sequences. Using the temporal and spatial evolution of the sea surface wave images it is also possible to determine high resolution current and bathymetry information. In the paper a brief introduction into the measuring principle of WaMoS II is given and results of a high resolution current and bathymetric mapping technique for shallow water areas (<20m) are presented. For validation these results are compared with model data and in-situ measurements

Developing a remote sensing system based on X-band radar technology for coastal morphodynamics study

New data processing techniques are proposed for the assessment of scopes and limitations from radar-derived sea state parameters, coastline evolution and water depth estimates. Most of the raised research is focused on Colombian Caribbean coast and the Western Mediterranean Sea. First, a novel procedure to mitigate shadowing in radar images is proposed. The method compensates distortions introduced by the radar acquisition process and the power decay of the radar signal along range applying image enhancement techniques through a couple of pre-processing steps based on filtering and interpolation. Results reveal that the proposed methodology reproduces with high accuracy the sea state parameters in nearshore areas. The improvement resulting from the proposed method is assessed in a coral reef barrier, introducing a completely novel use for X-Band radar in coastal environments. So far, wave energy dissipation on a coral reef barrier has been studied by a few in-situ sensors placed in a straight line, perpendicular to the coastline, but never been described using marine radars. In this context, marine radar images are used to describe prominent features of coral reefs, including the delineation of reef morphological structure, wave energy dissipation and wave transformation processes in the lagoon of San Andres Island barrier-reef system. Results show that reef attenuates incident waves by approximately 75% due to both frictional and wave breaking dissipation, with an equivalent bottom roughness of 0.20 m and a wave friction factor of 0.18. These parameters are comparable with estimates reported in other shallow coral reef lagoons as well as at meadow canopies, obtained using in-situ measurements of wave parameters.DoctoradoDoctor en Ingeniería Eléctrica y Electrónic

Observations of storm morphodynamics using Coastal Lidar and Radar Imaging System (CLARIS): Importance of wave refraction and dissipation over complex surf-zone morphology at a shoreline erosional hotspot

Elevated water levels and large waves during storms cause beach erosion, overwash, and coastal flooding, particularly along barrier island coastlines. While predictions of storm tracks have greatly improved over the last decade, predictions of maximum water levels and variations in the extent of damage along a coastline need improvement. In particular, physics based models still cannot explain why some regions along a relatively straight coastline may experience significant erosion and overwash during a storm, while nearby locations remain seemingly unchanged. Correct predictions of both the timing of erosion and variations in the magnitude of erosion along the coast will be useful to both emergency managers and homeowners preparing for an approaching storm. Unfortunately, research on the impact of a storm to the beach has mainly been derived from pre and post storm surveys of beach topography and nearshore bathymetry during calm conditions. This has created a lack of data during storms from which to ground-truth model predictions and test hypotheses that explain variations in erosion along a coastline. We have developed Coastal Lidar and Radar Imaging System (CLARIS), a mobile system that combines a terrestrial scanning laser and an X-band marine radar system using precise motion and location information. CLARIS can operate during storms, measuring beach topography, nearshore bathymetry (from radar-derived wave speed measurements), surf-zone wave parameters, and maximum water levels remotely. In this dissertation, we present details on the development, design, and testing of CLARIS and then use CLARIS to observe a 10 km section of coastline in Kitty Hawk and Kill Devil Hills on the Outer Banks of North Carolina every 12 hours during a Nor\u27Easter (peak wave height in 8 m of water depth = 3.4 m). High decadal rates of shoreline change as well as heightened erosion during storms have previously been documented to occur within the field site. In addition, complex bathymetric features that traverse the surf-zone into the nearshore are present along the southern six kilometers of the field site. In addition to the CLARIS observations, we model wave propagation over the complex nearshore bathymetry for the same storm event. Data reveal that the complex nearshore bathymetry is mirrored by kilometer scale undulations in the shoreline, and that both morphologies persist during storms, contrary to common observations of shoreline and surf-zone linearization by large storm waves. We hypothesize that wave refraction over the complex nearshore bathymetry forces flow patterns which may enhance or stabilize the shoreline and surf-zone morphology during storms. In addition, our semi-daily surveys of the beach indicate that spatial and temporal patterns of erosion are strongly correlated to the steepness of the waves. Along more than half the study site, fifty percent or more of the erosion that occurred during the first 12 hours of the storm was recovered within 24 hours of the peak of the storm as waves remained large (\u3e2.5 m), but transitioned to long period swell. In addition, spatial variations in the amount of beach volume change during the building portion of the storm were strongly correlated with observed wave dissipation within the inner surf zone, as opposed to predicted inundation elevations or alongshore variations in wave height

Occurrence and Energy Dissipation of Breaking Surface Waves in the Nearshore Studied with Coherent Marine Radar

Wave breaking influences air-sea interactions, wave induced forces on coastal structures, sediment transport and associated coastline changes. A good understanding of the process and a proper incorporation of wave breaking into earth system models is crucial for a solid assessment of the impacts of climate change and human influences on coastal dynamics. However, many aspects are still poorly understood which can be attributed to the fact that wave breaking is difficult to observe and study because it occurs randomly and involves multiple spatial and temporal scales. Within this doctoral work, a nearshore field experiment was planned and conducted on the island of Sylt in the North Sea to investigate the dynamics of wave breaking. The study combines in-situ observations, numerical simulations and remote sensing using shore-based coherent marine radar. The field measurements are used to investigate the coherent microwave backscatter from shoaling and breaking waves. Three major developments result from the study. The first one is a forward model to compute the backscatter intensity and Doppler velocity from known wave kinematics. The second development is a new classification algorithm to identify dominant breakers, whitecaps and radar imaging artifacts within the radar raw data. The algorithm is used to infer the fraction of breaking waves over a sub- and an inter-tidal sandbar as well as whitecap statistics and results are compared to different parameterizations available in literature. The third development is a new method to deduce the energy of the surface roller from the Doppler velocity measured by the radar. The roller energy is related to the dissipation of roller energy by the stress acting at the surface under the roller. From the spatial gradient of roller energy, the transformation of the significant wave height is computed along the entire cross-shore transect. Comparisons to in-situ measurements of the significant wave height from two bottom mounted pressure gauges and a wave rider buoy show a total root-mean-square-error of 0.20 m and a bias of −0.02 m. It is the first time that measurements of the spatio-temporal variation of the bulk wave energy dissipation together with the fraction of breaking waves are achieved in storm conditions over such a large distance of more than one kilometer. The largest dissipation rates (> 300 W/m² ) take place on a short distance of less than one wave length (≈ 50 m) at the inter-tidal sandbar. However, during storm conditions 50 % of the incoming wave energy flux is already dissipated at the sub-tidal sandbar. The simultaneous measurements of the occurrence frequency and the energy dissipation facilitate an assessment of the bulk dissipation of individual breaking waves. For the spilling-type breakers in this area, the observed dissipation rate is about 30 % smaller than the dissipation rate according to the generally used bore analogy. This must be considered within nearshore wave models if accurate predictions of the breaking probability are required

Evaluation of video-based linear depth inversion performance and applications using altimeters and hydrographic surveys in a wide range of environmental conditions

This paper is not subject to U.S. copyright. The definitive version was published in Coastal Engineering 136 (2018): 147-160, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.01.003.The performance of a linear depth inversion algorithm, cBathy, applied to coastal video imagery was assessed using observations of water depth from vessel-based hydrographic surveys and in-situ altimeters for a wide range of wave conditions (0.3 < significant wave height < 4.3 m) on a sandy Atlantic Ocean beach near Duck, North Carolina. Comparisons of video-based cBathy bathymetry with surveyed bathymetry were similar to previous studies (root mean square error (RMSE) = 0.75 m, bias = −0.26 m). However, the cross-shore locations of the surfzone sandbar in video-derived bathymetry were biased onshore 18–40 m relative to the survey when offshore wave heights exceeded 1.2 m or were greater than half of the bar crest depth, and broke over the sandbar. The onshore bias was 3–4 m when wave heights were less than 0.8 m and were not breaking over the sandbar. Comparisons of video-derived seafloor elevations with in-situ altimeter data at three locations onshore of, near, and offshore of the surfzone sandbar over ∼1 year provide the first assessment of the cBathy technique over a wide range of wave conditions. In the outer surf zone, video-derived results were consistent with long-term patterns of bathymetric change (r2 = 0.64, RMSE = 0.26 m, bias = −0.01 m), particularly when wave heights were less than 1.2 m (r2 = 0.83). However, during storms when wave heights exceeded 3 m, video-based cBathy over-estimated the depth by up to 2 m. Near the sandbar, the sign of depth errors depended on the location relative to wave breaking, with video-based depths overestimated (underestimated) offshore (onshore) of wave breaking in the surfzone. Wave speeds estimated by video-based cBathy at the initiation of wave breaking often were twice the speeds predicted by linear theory, and up to three times faster than linear theory during storms. Estimated wave speeds were half as fast as linear theory predictions at the termination of wave breaking shoreward of the sandbar. These results suggest that video-based cBathy should not be used to track the migration of the surfzone sandbar using data when waves are breaking over the bar nor to quantify morphological evolution during storms. However, these results show that during low energy conditions, cBathy estimates could be used to quantify seasonal patterns of seafloor evolution.This research was funded by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Coastal Field Data Collection Program, the Deputy Assistant Secretary of the Army for Research and Technology under ERDC's research program titled “Force Projection Entry Operations, STO D.GRD.2015.34”, the U.S. Naval Research Laboratory base program from the Office of Naval Research, a Vannevar Bush Faculty Fellowship funded by the Assistant Secretary of Defense for Research and Engineering, and the National Science Foundation

Dolphin-inspired target detection for sonar and radar

Gas bubbles in the ocean are produced by breaking waves, rainfall, methane seeps, exsolution, and a range of biological processes including decomposition, photosynthesis, respiration and digestion. However one biological process that produces particularly dense clouds of large bubbles, is bubble netting. This is practiced by several species of cetacean. Given their propensity to use acoustics, and the powerful acoustical attenuation and scattering that bubbles can cause, the relationship between sound and bubble nets is intriguing. It has been postulated that humpback whales produce ‘walls of sound’ at audio frequencies in their bubble nets, trapping prey. Dolphins, on the other hand, use high frequency acoustics for echolocation. This begs the question of whether, in producing bubble nets, they are generating echolocation clutter that potentially helps prey avoid detection (as their bubble nets would do with man-made sonar), or whether they have developed sonar techniques to detect prey within such bubble nets and distinguish it from clutter. Possible sonar schemes that could detect targets in bubble clouds are proposed, and shown to work both in the laboratory and at sea. Following this, similar radar schemes are proposed for the detection of buried explosives and catastrophe victims, and successful laboratory tests are undertaken

UBathy: a new approach for bathymetric inversion from video imagery

A new approach to infer the bathymetry from coastal video monitoring systems is presented. The methodology uses principal component analysis of the Hilbert transform of video images to obtain the components of the wave propagation field and their corresponding frequency and wavenumber. Incident and reflected constituents and subharmonics components are also found. Local water depth is then successfully estimated through wave dispersion relationship. The method is first applied to monochromatic and polychromatic synthetic wave trains propagated using linear wave theory over an alongshore uniform bathymetry in order to analyze the influence of different parameters on the results. To assess the ability of the approach to infer the bathymetry under more realistic conditions and to explore the influence of other parameters, nonlinear wave propagation is also performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model over a complex bathymetry. In the synthetic cases, the relative root mean square error obtained in bathymetry recovery (for water depths 0.75m¿h¿8.0m) ranges from ~1% to ~3% for infinitesimal-amplitude wave cases (monochromatic or polychromatic) to ~15% in the most complex case (nonlinear polychromatic waves). Finally, the new methodology is satisfactorily validated through a real field site video.Postprint (published version

Microwave radar cross sections and Doppler velocities measured in the surf zone

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2005. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 110 (2005): C12024, doi:10.1029/2005JC003022.The relationship between microwave imaging radar measurements of fluid velocities in the surf zone and shoaling, breaking, and broken waves is studied with field observations. Normalized radar cross section (NRCS) and Doppler velocity are estimated from microwave measurements at near-grazing angles, and in situ fluid velocities are measured with acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs). Joint histograms of radar cross section and Doppler velocity cluster into identifiable distributions. The NRCS values from pixels with large NRCS and high Doppler velocities (>2 m/s) decrease with decreasing bore height to the shoreline, similar to scattering from a cylinder with decreasing radius. The Doppler velocities associated with these regions in the histograms agree well with theoretical wave phase velocities. Radar and ADV measurements of fluid velocities between bore crests have similarly shaped energy density spectra for frequencies above about 0.1 Hz, but energy levels from the radar are an order of magnitude higher than those of the ADV data. Instantaneous interbore Doppler velocities are correlated with ADV measured fluid velocities but are offset by 0.8 m/s. This offset may be due to Bragg wave phase velocities, wind drift, range and azimuth sidelobes, the finite spatial resolution of the radar, and differences between mean flows measured at the surface with radar and flows measured below the surface with ADVs. Shoaling and breaking waves measured through radar grating lobes significantly affect both the Doppler velocities near the edges of the images and the scattering from the rear faces of waves, causing large Doppler velocities to be observed in these regions.This work was funded by the ONR Coastal Geosciences Program