Material relationships: the textile and the garment, the maker and the machine. Developing a composite pattern weaving system

This research brings together the disciplines of woven textile design, zero waste pattern cutting and fashion design to form the Composite Pattern Weaving system; an innovative approach to woven garment design and construction which assimilates textile and garment lay-plan design and construction to produce engineered zero waste and integrally shaped woven garments, containing multiple fabric qualities, from a single length of woven textile. The approach challenges conventional textile and fashion design processes and systems by adopting a holistic and simultaneous approach to the design and production of textile and garment components; facilitating the integration of functional and sustainable design strategies to enhance garment durability and longevity through the implementation of a multi-method lifecycle approach to design. This research adopts the Transitional Design Methodology; an alternative approach of working between traditional and advanced technologies which challenges the constraints of the two modes of production whilst capitalising on their advantages. This cyclical iterative approach emphasises the importance of the relationship between the maker, materials and the machine(s), whilst recognising the potential for a transitional dialogue and knowledge transfer between all aspects of hand and digital production. Employing both modes of production in parallel, the Transitional Design Methodology facilitates a reciprocal relationship whereby concepts, designs and ways of working evolve as the maker moves between modes. Through the production of zero waste woven garment prototypes using hand and digital weaving technologies, the research establishes new integral shaping techniques and woven garment construction methods to minimise material production, consumption and waste, and identifies some of the limitations of fully-fashioned and composite garment weaving. The garment prototypes embody the learning and knowledge derived through the application of the Transitional Design Methodology. They demonstrate the advantages of working iteratively between hand and digital modes of design and construction to produce innovative (and interconnected) design outcomes, to advance skills and processes, and enhance personal practice

Doublecloth: History, Technique, Possibilities.

Merged with duplicate record 10026.1/2320 on 06.20.2017 by CS (TIS)The aim of this research is to analyse through practical and historical investigation the manner in which Doublecloth in the twentieth century has been transformed from a traditional woven technique to one of artistic innovation and challenge. The first series of woven samples and historic enquiry concerns the structure and pattern of doublecloth at a time when its industrial and craft-based use was for the production of decorative and utilitarian woven fabrics. The research focuses on the extent to which this technique was given aesthetic credibility by its altered profile at the Bauhaus and the subsequent influence of the writings and work of Anni Albers. While the philosophy and products of the Bauhaus and the role of Walter Gropius have been documented and widely debated the practice of textiles, and the influence on it of gender, class and the hierarchical practice of craft, has received little critical attention. The research seeks to redress this imbalance, evaluating why the output of the textile workshops was undervalued artistically and considered marginal to the products from other workshops. This leads to a consideration of the interface between the practice of Fine Art and the practice of Craft, between designing and making, between art and industry. The woven samples are a process of experimentation against which the historic stages can be tested and the technical constraints of contemporary practice can be explained. This primary material leads to a consideration of the new technology and the impact of Nuno doublecloth fabrics on the production of doublecloth for the mass market. The evidence suggests that while new fabric finishes and experimental pattern effects are desirable, the difficulties of hand production are so prohibitive, that it is only with computer aided technology that such ambitions can be me

Advanced 3D ultrasonic characterisation of 2D woven composites

The principal aim of this project was to generate an automated mapping programme that will identify and quantify deviations from design, due to either manufacturing processes or in-service defects. Focusing on woven carbon fibre composites, using data acquired from ultrasonic non-destructive testing, individual weave identities have been developed. Knowledge of the individual weave identity will enable two key pieces of information when analysing components; lay-up and the presence of defects in terms of shear and rotation. Knowledge of the lay-up and presence of defects results in better informed decisions regarding the manufacture and the longevity of components. In many cases the requirement for a twin component to be manufactured will be negated; subsequently saving both time and money.The development of individual weave identities, alongside automation of the classification procedure is the key contribution of this thesis. The literature review shows that this capability does not currently exist. The weave identity work began with the adaption of Miller Indices from crystallography. In order to automate the weave identification, a spatial frequency vs. angle plot was established using image transformation. It was the realisation that the weave characteristic lines (and their subsequent spots on the spatial frequency vs. angle plots) are different from the lines corresponding to the fibre’s warp and weft tows which allowed for the discrimination of weave type. The process of weave identification was automated and both the accuracy and precision of the measurement of in-plane were established. Consequently, the developed technique enables the identification of angular distortions in woven carbon fibre composites. Finally, the testing of real samples showed that the presented method of weave classification works well, providing the images of the weaves are good, and that the imaging of the weave gets worse with depth, surface roughness and when the probe frequency does not match the ply resonance

An investigation of Ikat weaving and warp printing and their application to contemporary design

This work seeks to consider the contribution that Ikat weaving and warp printing could make to contemporary textile design. To do this the research first considered the historical background to Ikat weaving and warp printing by examining'the visual and structural characteristics involved and the definitions used historically. Then by studying in some detail the methods of manufacture, dyestuffs, and design imagery of warp Ikats from South America and Central Asia, and weft and double Ikats from Indonesia and Japan a particular was made with a detailed study comparison of these Ikat techniques in The first volume of this work concluded with a detailed study of warp, weft and double Ikats in Japan. From this historic basis and analysis of the various techniques used experiments were devised to understand more clearly the effect of fibre, structure, colouration, warp design and its positioning on the image produced in the fabric. In investigating this a series of practical experiments was carried out on warp printed wool, cotton and silk fabrics and measurements made of the effects of the variables. These results were used to undertake a second series of experiments using slub weft yarns, warp printed silk and warp printed cotton fabrics made from a double warp. The work established from an historical viewpoint that the Ikat weavers were familiar and well practised within the traditional design limits of their craft but that these limits were differently defined for the various types of Ikat produced throughout the world. From the technological experiments the factors controlling the image, its size, position. and effect were determined so that ultimately exemplar design effects were created which suggested ways in which this technique could be developed in the future

Artificial Neural Networks and Their Applications in the Engineering of Fabrics

WOS: 00036372550000

Structure and geometry of single and two layer stitched woven fabrics

Existují různé způsoby výroby textilií. Jednou z možností výroby je výroba na základě technologie tkaní. Kde tkanina vzniká vzájemným provázáním osnovních a útkových nití. Geometrie a struktura tkanin má významný vliv na její chování. Tkaná struktura je tvořena vzájemným silovým působením a parametry vstupujících soustav nití. Tkaniny jako jeden ze tří plošných útvarů jsou klíčové výztuhy, které nabízejí snadnou manipulaci, tvárnost a zlepšují rovinné vlastnosti. Většina kompozitů je vyrobena vrstvením z tkaných materiálů, kde může nastat separace jednotlivých kompozitních vrstev výztuže. Tento problém může být řešen pomocí použitím vícevrstvé tkané výztuže spojkové, místo jednoduché tkaniny. Ve struktuře vícevrstvé tkaniny spojkové dochází k propojení jednotlivých vrstev už při samotném procesu tkaní. Struktura a vlastnosti tkanin jsou závislé na konstrukčních parametrech, jako je jemnost nití, dostava (osnovy a útku), vazba, setkání atd. Jak je známo, tkaniny možné popsat pomocí matematických forem založených na jejich geometrii. Lze idealizovat obecné charakteristiky materiálů do jednoduchých geometrických tvarů a fyzikálních parametrů, k vytvoření matematické formulace. Modely mohou popisovat vnitřní geometrii tkanin popisem některé části vazné vlny. Avšak my potřebujeme model, který dokáže popsat vaznou vlnu jako celek - celou střídu vazby. V této studii se usiluje o vytvoření teoretického modelu geometrie jednoduché a dvouvrstvé tkané struktury a jejich ověření s experimentálními výsledky. První část práce se zabývá vývojem modelu a druhou částí je zpráva o ověření tohoto modelu. V první části, je líčen základní popis geometrie tkanin. Křížení osnovy a útku vytváří základní vaznou buňku tkaniny pro všechny typy provázání. Řada výzkumníků učinila mnoho pokusů najít vhodný model pro popis vazebné buňky. Byly vytvořené matematické modely pro vyjádření tvaru vazebné vlny v příčném řezu plátnového provázání v ustáleném stavu. Tyto geometrické modely byly také studovány z hlediska nalezení jejich limitních hodnot provázání. Po obsáhlých studiích byla geometrie vazné buňky (pro jednoduché a dvouvrstvé tkaniny spojkové) prezentována jako teoretické hodnocení využívající Fourierových řad. Tato studie ukazuje některé zajímavé matematické vztahy mezi konstrukčními parametry jednoduché a dvouvrstvé tkaniny spojkové.Ve druhé části této práce, byl ověřen teoretický model pro popis vzájemného provázání nití ve struktuře jednoduchých tkanin s plátnovou vazbou s využitím Fourierových řad. Teoretické modely byly porovnaný s experimentálními hodnotami získanými z reálné vazné vlny pomocí obrazové analýzy. Vnitřní geometrie tkaniny a deformace nití ve struktuře tkaniny s jednou a dvěma vrstvami byly hodnoceny metodou analýzy obrazu. Pro jednoduchou a dvouvrstvou tkaninu spojkovou v podélném a příčném řezu byla provedena analýza využitím Fourierových řad, kde vstupní funkce k vyjádření popisu byla použita lineární funkce f(x). Spektrální charakteristika, včetně popisu střednice vazné vlny získaných pomocí Fourierovy řady (teoretické) byla porovnána s experimentálními hodnotami, které jsou v podélném pohledu a příčném průřezu velmi blízké. Hodnocením geometrických parametrů osnovních a útkových nití v reálném průřezu tkaniny je možné porovnávat s teoretickým tvarem vazné vlny pomocí analýzy jejích jednotlivých souřadnic. V rámci práce bylo provedeno hodnocení a porovnání provázání a struktury tkaniny pro různé opakované velikosti střídy dvou-vrstvé spojkové tkaniny. Jak je patrné z výsledného hodnocení, poloha a velikost spojky přímo určuje tvar spektrální charakteristiky vycházející z daného rozvoje Fourierovy řady použitého pro konkrétní popis tvaru vazné vlny spojkové dvouvrstvé tkaniny.There are different ways of making fabrics but the most common method of producing woven fabric is by interlaced yarns. The woven fabric geometry and structure have significant effects on their behavior. The woven structures provide a combination of strength with flexibility. At high strains the yarns take the load together giving high strength, whereas at small strains the flexibility is achieved by yarn crimp due to freedom of yarn movement. Woven fabrics are key reinforcements which offer ease of handling, moldability, and improved in plane properties. Most of the composites are made by stacking layers of woven performs over each other which can cause the delamination failure in composite materials. This problem has been tackled by using multilayer woven perform as reinforcement, instead of single layer woven fabrics. In the multilayer woven structures, multiple layers of distinctive woven fabrics are being stitched during the weaving process.The structure and properties of a woven fabric are dependent upon the constructional parameters such as thread density, yarn fineness, crimp, weave etc. As we know, woven fabrics are not capable of description in mathematical forms based on their geometry because these are not regular structures; but many researchers believe that we can idealize the general characters of the materials into simple geometrical forms and physical parameters to arrive at mathematical deductions. It is always assumed that the variation of the fabric structure is insignificant in the analysis. The models given by these researchers can describe the internal geometry of woven fabric by describing some part of the binding wave. But we need a model that can describe binding wave in whole repeat and the validation is good from left or right side. We need to obtain not only geometry of binding wave but also spectral characterization for analyzing individual components, which can react on deformation of the shape of binding wave.In this study, an attempt is made to create a theoretical model on the geometry of plain single and two layer woven structures and verify them with experimental results. The first part of the work deals with the model development and the second part reports on model validation. In the first part, the basic description of the geometry of woven fabric has been described. The interlacing of one warp and one weft yarn creates the binding cell of the woven fabric. Many attempts have been made by different researchers to find a suitable model for describing the binding cell. They have worked mathematically to express the shape of the binding wave in a given thread crossing in a woven fabric in a steady state. The geometric models have been studied to find out their limitations as well. After a comprehensive study, the geometry of binding cell in plain weave for single and two layer stitched woven fabrics have been presented for theoretical evaluation by Fourier series. This study shows some interesting mathematical relationships between constructional parameters of single and two layer stitched woven fabrics, so as to enable the fabric designers and researchers to have a clear understanding of the engineering aspects of single and two layer woven fabrics.In the second part of the work, the theoretical model for the description of mutual interlacing of threads, in multifilament woven fabric structure using Fourier series, derived from plain woven structure has been validated with experimental results. The internal geometry of the woven fabrics and the deformation of the shape of the binding wave in the single and two layer stitched woven structures has been evaluated by the cross-sectional image analysis method. The approximation using the linear function f(x) in Fourier series along longitudinal and transverse cross-section has been performed for single layer and two layer stitched woven fabrics cross-section, which fits well to the experimental binding wave. The spectral characteristics of b

An investigation of integrated woven electronic textiles (e-textiles) via design led processes

This thesis was submitted for the award of Doctor of Philosophy and was awarded by Brunel University LondonElectronic textiles (e­‐textiles) are created by the amalgamation of electronics and textiles, where electronics are integrated into or onto fabric substrates. Woven textiles are specifically considered in this thesis to integrate electronics into textiles' orthogonal architecture. This thesis investigates 'How can the weaving process be manipulated to make woven e-­textiles with integrated electronics?' The methodological approach taken is practice based research carried out via a technical materials approach and creative craft methods. An investigation of woven e-­textiles through design led practice and woven expertise is presented. Previously, woven e-­textiles have been investigated either via technical material approaches, (where the main emphasis remains on function) or via creative craft methods, (which emphasise experimental forms, manipulate integration methods and apply craft based knowledge). Both of these approaches have presented only limited investigation of unobtrusive integrated electronics in woven e-­textiles, and woven structures have not been fully utilised to support the integration. The research applies reflective practice through a design process model; this is based on the researcher's previous weaving expertise and designing methods. The work investigates how woven construction may be manipulated to develop novel integrated woven e-­textiles. It was found that five woven approaches were particularly of value for electronics integration. These were the use of double cloth, the integration of multiple functions into the textiles as part of the weaving, the use of complex weaving techniques to attach and integrate components, the use of inlay weft weaving and the manipulation of floats (free floating threads). The thesis makes original contributions to knowledge, including identification of key stages in the woven e-­textile design process, identification and application of advanced weaving techniques to facilitate integrated woven e-­textiles, and compilation of a systematic record of woven e-­‐textile techniques as a technical woven repository. Underpinning design principles that influence the developed e-­textile outcomes are identified. A range of woven e-­textile samples are designed and made. Three specific examples including an actuator ('RGB colour mixer'), a circuit ('corrugated pleat LED v2') and a soft module ('battery holder module v4'), are described in detail to illustrate their development using the e-­textile design process model. The knowledge gained has potential to be applied to industrial woven processes for e-­textiles.Brunel University EPSRC (DTA) bursar

The influence of woven fabric structures on the continuous dyeing of Lyocell fabrics with reactive dyes

Tencel, a regenerated cellulosic fibre is synthesised by an environmental friendly process. It can be dyed by the same dye types as recommended for other cellulosic fibres. The behaviour of reactive dyes on Tencel woven fabric varies with the type and the density of woven fabric. The highly crystalline Tencel fibre is less easy to dye uniformly by the continuous dyeing methods because of the short time of contact between the dye and fibre. The purpose of this work is to investigate the influences of weave structure on dyeing of standard Tencel fabric using reactive dyes applied by continuous dyeing methods. Programmes are developed using Matlab software to measure the fabric porosity and uniformity of fibre coloration (UFC) in the yarns of the woven fabric. UFC is also measured subjectively. Firstly, fabrics of four different weave structures (plain, 2/1, 3/1, 5/1 twill fabric) are studied. The visual depth and UFC standard deviation values is highest for the 2/1 twill fabric, gradually reducing towards the 5/1 twill fabric. Secondly, nine plain weave fabrics of different fabric densities are dyed using different padding procedures - a liquor temperature of 40⁰C with a 1 min dwell time and with a 5 min dwell time, and liquor at room temperature without any dwell time. The padded fabrics are then fixed by pad-steam, pad-dry-steam, pad-batch and pad-dry-thermosol continuous dyeing processes. To improve colour depth the plain weave fabrics are given a caustic pre-treatment and their dyeing characteristics are compared with untreated fabrics. The causticised fabrics are dyed using the same padding procedures, for comparison. The optimum dyeing procedure is found to be padding with a dwell time of 1 min in liquor at 40⁰C after caustic pre-treatment to achieve the highest visual depth, dye uptake, and uniformity of fibre coloration. The fibrillation tendency of the Tencel plain weave fabrics is also reduced using this procedure. Numerical relationships are established to enable the prediction of dyeing properties such as colour strength, UFC for fabrics of different weave structures, applied by the various continuous dyeing processes

Characterizing the deformation response of a unidirectional non-crimp fabric for the development of computational draping simulation models

In several countries around the world, including Canada, government incentives have been put in place to improve the fuel efficiency of vehicles and reduce CO2 emissions. Improvements in composites manufacturing technology, such as high-pressure resin transfer molding and quick curing resins, makes it practical to lightweight through the incorporation of carbon fiber reinforced polymer (CFRP) parts into the body-in-white structure of vehicles. However, the technology has only been realized for small production rates and is currently in the developmental phase towards full automation for high-volume production. Hence, there is a need to developed and calibrate fabric draping simulations models to support this effort and enable the design of CFRP production processes that incorporate cost-effective fabric reinforcement material, such as heavy tow unidirectional non-crimp fabric (UD-NCF). This work aimed to expand the understanding of the forming behaviour of UD-NCFs, within the context of the development of automation capabilities for fabric preforming. The investigation focused on the characterization of the macroscale response of a UD-NCF, including an investigating of associated local deformation mechanisms, to calibrate a macroscale constitutive model and support the development of a computational fabric draping simulation model. The fabric characterization consisted of a series of experimental tests that measured the fabric in-plane and out-of-plane deformation responses reminiscent of draping operations. The tests were conducted with respect to the carbon fiber (CF) tow longitudinal and transverse directions. The experimental tests conducted were the longitudinal, transverse, and off-axis extension tests; the picture frame test (PFT); the cantilever; and friction sliding test in both material directions. The longitudinal extension and bending stiffness were found to be significantly higher than the respective transverse extension and bending stiffnesses. Also, at low strains, the fabric transverse extension stiffness was found to be negligible until crimping in the transverse glass fibers was removed. Regarding the fabric friction response, the coefficients of friction were higher on the stitching fabric side and when sliding occurred in the longitudinal fabric direction. Also, an investigation of the fabric mesoscale deformation mechanisms revealed the generation of CF tow undulations and intertow gapping, mainly generated by deformation of the stitching, when the fabric was subjected to transverse extension and shear deformations. To address difficulties associated with sliding of the glass fibers at the clamps during extension and PFT testing a clamping design was proposed that fully restrained the glass fibers, while at the same time preventing specimen damage at the grips. 2D DIC was used to study the development of strains in the fabric during all in-plane experimental tests. Challenges associated with fabric surface texturization and strain measurements through digital image correlation were investigated and addressed to improve the optical strain analysis. A surface texturization technique with an oil-based paint was implemented in all tests as it created high contrast speckle patterns on the fabric surface and the least amount of fabric deformation interference when compared with two other surface texturization techniques. Using the experimental results, a macroscale material model, chosen from the existing material model library available in the commercial finite element software LS-DYNA® was calibrated to simulate forming operations. The material model was calibrated for in-plane and out-of-plane deformation modes in accordance with the experimental tests conducted. The material model parameters were identified by simulating the experimental tests conducted during the fabric characterization process and an iterative inverse parameter identification approach until a good correlation was obtained between the numerical simulations and the corresponding physical tests. In most cases, piecewise linear functions were used to approximate the experimental test data before entering into the material model. Finally, to validate the calibration of the material model, a single-layer 100-mm diameter hemispherical test with a displacement controlled punch was performed and simulated using the calibrated material model. In addition to the calibrated material model, results from the friction tests were used to define contact boundary conditions in the draping simulation model. A good agreement was obtained between the simulation predictions of macroscopic deformations observed in the fabric, including contour shape and wrinkling, and the experimental results

Textile materials

In this specialised publication, the reader will find research results and real engineering developments in the field of modern technical textiles. Modern technical textile materials, ranging from ordinary reinforcing fabrics in the construction and production of modern composite materials to specialised textile materials in the composition of electronics, sensors and other intelligent devices, play an important role in many areas of human technical activity. The use of specialized textiles, for example, in medicine makes it possible to achieve important results in diagnostics, prosthetics, surgical practice and the practice of using specialized fabrics at the health recovery stage. The use of reinforcing fabrics in construction can significantly improve the mechanical properties of concrete and various plaster mixtures, which increases the reliability and durability of various structures and buildings in general. In mechanical engineering, the use of composite materials reinforced with special textiles can simultaneously reduce weight and improve the mechanical properties of machine parts. Fabric- reinforced composites occupy a significant place in the automotive industry, aerospace engineering, and shipbuilding. Here, the mechanical reliability and thermal resistance of the body material of the product, along with its low weight, are very relevant. The presented edition will be useful and interesting for engineers and researchers whose activities are related to the design, production and application of various technical textile materials