Development and validation of a smart system for medullation and diameter assessment of alpaca, llama and mohair fibres

Medullated fibres, due to their higher resistance to bending and pressure, constitute a problem for the textile industry. Thus, having practical instruments to identify them is essential. Therefore, the aim of this research was to develop and validate a novel, swift, automatic system (referred to as S-Fiber Med) for medullation and diameter assessment of animal fibres based on artificial intelligence. The medullation of 88 samples of alpaca, llama and mohair fibres (41, 43 and 4, respectively) was evaluated. Additionally, 269 samples of alpacas were considered for average fibre diameter (AFD) and the results were compared with the Portable Fiber Tester (PFT) and Optical Fibre Diameter Analyser (OFDA) methods (72 and 197 samples, respectively). The preparation of each sample to be analysed followed the procedure described in IWTO-8-2011. Version 5 of “You Only Look Once” and DenseNet models were used to recognise the type of medullation and diameter of the fibres, respectively. Within each image (n = 661 for alpaca), all fibres were labelled (as Non-Medullated, Fragmented Medulla, Uncontinuous Medulla, Continuous Medulla and Strongly Medullated) using the LabelImg tool. Data augmentation technique was applied to obtain 3 966 images. Such data set was divided into 3 576 and 390 images for training and test data, respectively. For mohair samples (n = 321), a similar process was carried out. The data to train the model used to infer the diameter contained 16 446 fibres labelled with his respective AFD. A complementary hardware composed of three subsystems (mechanical, electronic, and optical) was developed for evaluation purposes. T-test, Pearson and Concordance correlation, Bland-Altman plot and linear regression analyses were used to validate and compare the S-Fiber Med with other methods. Results indicate that there was no significant difference between medullation percentage obtained with the projection microscope and the S-Fiber Med. The Pearson and Concordance correlation analysis shows a strong, high and significant relationship (P-value 0.172), and they have a strong, high and significant relationship between them, given the high Pearson correlation value (r ≥ 0.96 with P-value < 0.001), high Concordance coefficient and bias correction factor. Similar results were found when PFT and OFDA100 were compared with S-Fiber Med. As a conclusion, this new system provides precise, accurate measurements of medullation and AFD in an expeditious fashion (40 seconds/sample).Open Access funding was provided by Public University of Navarre

Database and guide for Lesotho wool and mohair production and quality

Lesotho produces significant quantities of Merino apparel wool and mohair, both of a quality that allows them to compete on the global market and to make a significant contribution to the economy of the country. Nevertheless, very little production and quality data and trends of these fibres have been documented. This is a serious disadvantage in terms of international trading and benchmarking as well as attempts to improve the production and quality of Lesotho wool and mohair. In the light of the aforementioned, the available production and quality data of the past 10 years have been captured and analysed for trends and also benchmarking, where considered applicable. The main focus is on fibre diameter (fineness), staple length, and yield since they largely determine fibre quality, application and price. Some quality related tests were undertaken to fill certain important gaps in the available data. In addition, prickle and medullation were evaluated on representative wool and mohair samples, respectively, because they represent important quality measures for apparel wool and mohair, respectively. It was found that Lesotho wool and mohair are of a fairly good and internationally competitive quality, with the wool having an average fibre diameter (MFD) of ≈20μm, an average staple length of about 64mm, an average VM level of about 4%, an average yield of about 57%, and the annual production being about 4 million kilograms greasy. The average staple length of the mohair was about 140mm, average MFD about 29μm and the average medullation, which unless otherwise specified, refers to the objectionable medullated fibres (kemp type) including the flat medullated fibre, relatively high at about 5.7%. The latter is certainly an area of concern which needs attention and improvement. It was found that the prickle level (Comfort Factor), of some of the wools tested was of such a level as to make the wool suitable for wearing against the skin. With respect to mohair, there is considerable scope to substantially reduce the level of objectionable medullated (kemp style) fibre level through the appropriate breeding interventions. Production of both wool and mohair has increased slightly over the ten years covered by this study. It also became apparent that Lesotho wool and mohair quality and production are greatly influenced by the farming practices and climatic conditions. Greater adoption of the merino sheep breed, sheds/barns and sheep coats are suggested as ways to reduce mortality rate (due to extremely cold temperatures), improve quality and increase yield and production. Some farming practices such as the lack of barns, supplementary feeding and veterinary care present constraints in terms of production of both wool and mohair. The districts in the Highlands region had the highest production of mostly wool, this being ascribed to better pastures, climatic and other conditions conducive to wool and mohair production. Both wool and mohair are considered to have potential for improved quality and production, which could be affected by appropriate interventions by the Small Agricultural and Development Project (SADP) and others through National Wool and Mohair Growers Association (NWMGA). Nevertheless, since the wool and mohair growers (farmers) do not form part of these and other interventions, they do not readily adopt the various strategies and decisions and do not receive the associated benefits immediately. It is therefore advised that local farmers, relevant educators and researchers be represented in policy and other decision making forums. In this way, educational campaigns will be demand driven with greater chance of adoption and success

The Bobbin and Beaker Vol. 15 No. 1

https://tigerprints.clemson.edu/spec_bobbin/1175/thumbnail.jp

Advances in Fibre Production Science in South American Camelids and other Fibre Animals

Animal fibres from South American camelids and other fibre or wool bearing species provide important products for use by the human population. The contemporary context includes the competition with petrocarbon-based artificial fibres and concern about excessive persistence of these in the natural environment. Animal fibres present highly valuable characteristics for sustainable production and processing as they are both natural and renewable. On the other hand, their use is recognised to depend on availability of appropriate quality and quantity, the production of which is underpinned by a range of sciences and processes which support development to meet market requirements. This collection of papers combines international experience from South and North America, China and Europe. The focus lies on domestic South American camelids (alpacas, llamas) and also includes research on sheep and goats. It considers latest advances in sustainable development under climate change, breeding and genetics, reproduction and pathology, nutrition, meat and fibre production and fibre metrology. Publication of this book is supported by the Animal Fibre Working Group of the European Federation of Animal Science (EAAP). ‘Advances in Fibre Production Science in South American Camelids and other Fibre Animals’ addresses issues of importance to scientists and animal breeders, textile processors and manufacturers, specialised governmental policy makers and students studying veterinary, animal and applied biological sciences

Strategies to Eliminate Inherited Pigmentation in Australian Merino Sheep

The viability of eliminating inherited pigmentation from the Australian Merino flock by DNA technology was investigated as a means of reducing dark fibre contamination of white wool. Two genetically distinct forms of inherited pigmentation are known. Symmetrical patterns follow simple recessive inheritance. Meanwhile the inheritance of piebald spots is uncertain. Inheritance models for piebald were assessed against new and prior field records to resolve this point, but a clear-cut conclusion was not possible at this time - further field experimentation is required. Gene discovery for Mendelian characters by homozygosity mapping was reviewed and applied in simulation to livestock situations. The method was found to be efficient, powerful, robust, and readily adaptable to a wide range of gene discovery problems. In particular, modifications to the design of HM to suit livestock had a relatively small effect on experimental power in many cases. For a ram-breeding flock, paternal culling in addition to phenotypic culling was found to be a highly effective strategy to reduce the frequency of undesirable pigmentation alleles as well as being cost-effective through reduction in the incidence of pigmented phenotypes. Taking steps to minimise allele frequency prior to the commencement of DNA gene testing also gave large benefits. When DNA gene testing becomes available, early adoption and rapid elimination of pigmentation alleles were found to be preferable in most situations for ram breeding flocks. The costs of eliminating pigmentation alleles and the concomitant loss of selection intensity were found to be inversely proportional to the initial allele frequency. Across a spectrum of inheritance models (excluding simple dominance) the particular inheritance model had little additional effect. An efficient testing strategy could significantly reduce costs. Economic analysis at the industry level has revealed the key costs and sources of revenue which would be affected by eliminating inherited pigmentation. While many factors were difficult to specify, the cost of DNA testing emerged as the most critical factor. This study has demonstrated the technical potential of DNA technology to reveal many of the missing pieces of the puzzle of inherited pigmentation and its elimination from Merino flocks. DNA technology is vital to both gene discovery and gene testing for the presence of undesirable pigmentation alleles, and no practical alternatives exist. The economic viability of widespread DNA gene testing is subject to many uncertainties at this time. However many industry players are keen to adopt gene testing even at quite a high test cost and the trend for the cost of a new technology to decline over time would improve the financial outcome. Meanwhile, indirect benefits through enhancing the reputation of Australian apparel wool could be substantial. While the uncertainty over the eventual returns from investments in research should prompt some caution, continuation of research in this field is encouraged

The potential of Raman spectroscopy in distinguishing between wool and mohair fibres

The possible application of the FT Raman, Raman micro-spectroscopy and ATR-FTIR micro-spectroscopy, have been investigated for distinguishing between wool and mohair. Highly identical Raman and FTIR spectra were obtained from the two fibre types, indicating that indeed they share similar basic molecular structural chemistry. The analysis of the amide I through curve fitting of wool and mohair FT Raman spectra showed that the protein and polypeptide secondary structure exists mainly in the α-helical structural conformation with smaller proportions of β-pleated sheet and β-Turns. These proportions, however, could not be used to distinguish between wool and mohair, due to the significant overlap observed between the two fibres. This study also determined the disulphide contents for possibly distinguishing between wool and mohair fibres, with the average and standard deviation values of 0.20±0.04 and 0.17±0.03 for wool and mohair, respectively, being found. Despite the mean values being found to differ statistically significant (p<0.05), a considerable overlap was observed, posing a doubt in the possible application of the method for distinguishing between the two fibres and blend composition analysis of the two fibres. The application of ratiometric analysis, based on the relative peak heights of certain FT Raman bands, showed that a combination of ratios A (I2932/I1450) and D (I508/I1450) could hold great potential in distinguishing between wool and mohair fibre samples. The individual values of ratios A and D varied a great deal from one mohair sample to the other and even more from one wool sample to another, with the individual values for ratio A ranging from 2.71-3.68 and 2.35-3.08 for wool and mohair, respectively, while ratio D ranged from 0.18-0.32 and 0.17-0.22 for wool and mohair, respectively. An important observation from this study is that if, for an unknown sample, if individual values of ratios A and D exceed 3.1 and 0.22, respectively, are found then the sample is most likely to be either a pure wool or blend of wool and mohair, whereas if all the values fall below the two threshold values, then the unknown sample can be declared a pure mohair sample. A Raman spectral database or library of approximately 100 high quality Raman average spectra of wool and mohair fibres has been established for the Bruker 80V FTIR/Raman spectrophotometer at the Nelson Mandela University (NMU). Although this has not been fully validated due to the unforeseen frequent breakdown encountered with the FT Raman system, at this stage, it has been realized that verification of unknown materials is highly possible. A great need for the development of a classification model based on multivariate or chemometrics has been realized. An ATR-FTIR LUMOS micro-spectroscopic system was also investigated for the possible application in distinguishing between wool and mohair single fibres. The amide I/II band ratios were determined for both wool and mohair fibres to distinguish between the two fibre types. The mean and standard deviation values of 1.20±0.02 and 1.21±0.01 for mohair and wool, respectively, were found and were shown not to differ statistically significant (p˃0.05). The secondary structure analysis showed that the content of the α-helical secondary structure might be different between the two fibre types, with a great overlap of individual values, however, being observed between the two fibre types (wool and mohair), raising concerns in the possible application of the α-helical content for distinguishing the two fibres

The potential of Raman spectroscopy in distinguishing between wool and mohair fibres

The possible application of the FT Raman, Raman micro-spectroscopy and ATR-FTIR micro-spectroscopy, have been investigated for distinguishing between wool and mohair. Highly identical Raman and FTIR spectra were obtained from the two fibre types, indicating that indeed they share similar basic molecular structural chemistry. The analysis of the amide I through curve fitting of wool and mohair FT Raman spectra showed that the protein and polypeptide secondary structure exists mainly in the α-helical structural conformation with smaller proportions of β-pleated sheet and β-Turns. These proportions, however, could not be used to distinguish between wool and mohair, due to the significant overlap observed between the two fibres. This study also determined the disulphide contents for possibly distinguishing between wool and mohair fibres, with the average and standard deviation values of 0.20±0.04 and 0.17±0.03 for wool and mohair, respectively, being found. Despite the mean values being found to differ statistically significant (p<0.05), a considerable overlap was observed, posing a doubt in the possible application of the method for distinguishing between the two fibres and blend composition analysis of the two fibres. The application of ratiometric analysis, based on the relative peak heights of certain FT Raman bands, showed that a combination of ratios A (I2932/I1450) and D (I508/I1450) could hold great potential in distinguishing between wool and mohair fibre samples. The individual values of ratios A and D varied a great deal from one mohair sample to the other and even more from one wool sample to another, with the individual values for ratio A ranging from 2.71-3.68 and 2.35-3.08 for wool and mohair, respectively, while ratio D ranged from 0.18-0.32 and 0.17-0.22 for wool and mohair, respectively. An important observation from this study is that if, for an unknown sample, if individual values of ratios A and D exceed 3.1 and 0.22, respectively, are found then the sample is most likely to be either a pure wool or blend of wool and mohair, whereas if all the values fall below the two threshold values, then the unknown sample can be declared a pure mohair sample. A Raman spectral database or library of approximately 100 high quality Raman average spectra of wool and mohair fibres has been established for the Bruker 80V FTIR/Raman spectrophotometer at the Nelson Mandela University (NMU). Although this has not been fully validated due to the unforeseen frequent breakdown encountered with the FT Raman system, at this stage, it has been realized that verification of unknown materials is highly possible. A great need for the development of a classification model based on multivariate or chemometrics has been realized. An ATR-FTIR LUMOS micro-spectroscopic system was also investigated for the possible application in distinguishing between wool and mohair single fibres. The amide I/II band ratios were determined for both wool and mohair fibres to distinguish between the two fibre types. The mean and standard deviation values of 1.20±0.02 and 1.21±0.01 for mohair and wool, respectively, were found and were shown not to differ statistically significant (p˃0.05). The secondary structure analysis showed that the content of the α-helical secondary structure might be different between the two fibre types, with a great overlap of individual values, however, being observed between the two fibre types (wool and mohair), raising concerns in the possible application of the α-helical content for distinguishing the two fibres