Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamics

The present work, involves the simulation of the transport of a vitamin C derivative, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (ATI), through human skin by molecular dynamics. Percutaneous absorption of the ATI molecule through the infundibulum, an important route of absorption into the hair follicle of the human skin, has been modeled and compared with the stratum corneum membrane. The comparative study was done, using molecular dynamics with Martini force field. In infundibulum, a single ATI molecule require more time to penetrate, and the data obtained suggested that a high concentration of ATI molecule accelerated the process of penetration. In conclusion, the ATI molecule was found to have more affinity towards the stratum corneum as compared towards the infundibulum and it followed a straight pathway to penetrate (until 600 ns of simulation). In infundibulum, it showed less affinity, more mobility and followed a lateral pathway. Thus, this work contributes to a better understanding of the different molecular interactions during percutaneous absorption of active molecules in these two different types of biological membranes.The authors acknowledge financial support from the Brazilian agencies CAPES, Finep and Fapesp (Project FINEP 01.10.0661-00, FAPESP 2011/13250-0, FAPESP 2013/17247-9, FAPESP 2014/05975-2, CAPES 88887068264/2014-00), of Institute of Research and Development, University of Vale Paraíba

Desenvolvimento de filmes contendo nanocápsulas de ácido retinóico e tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila para uso cutâneo

O envelhecimento cutâneo é um processo fisiológico que sofre influência de fatores externos como poluição ambiental, condições climáticas, e principalmente, exposição excessiva à radiação ultravioleta. Nessa perspectiva, a utilização de produtos cosméticos contendo agentes antioxidantes como as vitaminas A e C e seus derivados é promissora. O ácido retinóico tem a capacidade de promover a renovação celular e reduzir hiperpigmentação e enrugamento, e o tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila atua como hidratante cutâneo, além de reduzir a hiperpigmentação causada pela radiação ultravioleta B. Os cosméticos em filmes caracterizamse como uma inovação na tecnologia de cosméticos tendo em vista sua facilidade de utilização, praticidade e comodidade. As nanocápsulas poliméricas atuam como carreadores de substâncias ativas e apresentam as vantagens de proteção, liberação controlada e redução de irritação local. Sendo assim, este trabalho tem como objetivo desenvolver filmes poliméricos contendo nanocápsulas poliméricas de ácido retinóico e tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila para aplicação como máscaras faciais. Primeiramente, foram desenvolvidas duas metodologias analíticas em cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência para quantificar as substâncias ativas, após as nanocápsulas obtidas foram desenvolvidas pelo método de deposição interfacial do polímero pré-formado e os filmes poliméricos foram obtidos após o processo de secagem em estufa à vácuo a 40 ºC por 24 horas. Além disso, o potencial irritativo das suspensões e dos filmes foram avaliados em membrana cório-alantóide de ovo embrionado (HET-CAM). As suspensões de nanocápsulas continham 0,5 mg/mL de tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila e ácido retinóico e apresentaram diâmetro médio de 148±2,08 nm e baixo índice de polidispersão e potencial zeta de -7,4±0,62 mV. Os teores obtidos foram de 98,8±4,59% para o tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila e 102,02±0,02% para o ácido retinóico. A eficiência de encapsulação para ambas as substâncias foi de 100%. Os filmes inovadores desenvolvidos apresentaram características satisfatórias quanto aos parâmetros relacionados à textura, flexibilidade e homogeneidade visual, além de proporcionarem uma recuperação do perfil de distribuição nanométrico nas avaliações por diversas técnicas analíticas. As formulações contendo as substâncias ativas nanoencapsuladas foram classificadas como “não irritantes”, já as formulações contendo as substâncias ativas na forma de nanoemulsões foram classificadas como “irritação fraca” e os filmes como “irritação moderada”. Sendo assim, os filmes poliméricos contendo as suspensões de nanocápsulas desenvolvidos apresentaram resultados promissores para a utilização como máscaras faciais.Skin aging is a physiological process controlled by natural factors, such as environmental, climatic conditions, and specially, excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation. In this perspective, the use of products such as antioxidants like vitamins A and C and their derivatives is promising. Retinoic acid has the ability to promote cell renewal and reduce hyperpigmentation and wrinkling, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate acts as a cutaneous moisturizer, besides reducing skin hyperpigmentation by ultraviolet B radiation. Film cosmetics are characterized as an innovation in cosmetic technology due to its ease of use, practicality and convenience. Polymeric nanocapsules act as carriers of active substances and exhibit the advantages of protection, controlled release and reduction of local irritation. Thus, this work aims to develop polymeric films containing retinoic acid and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate loaded polymeric nanocapsules for application as facial masks. Firstly, two analytical methodologies were developed in high performance liquid chromatography to quantify the active substances, after the nanocapsules obtained were developed by interfacial deposition of preformed polymer and the polymeric films were obtained after the drying process in a vacuum oven at 40 ° C for 24 hours. In addition, the irritative potential of suspensions and films was evaluated on Hen’s Egg Chorionallantoic Membrane (HET-CAM). Nanocapsule suspensions contained 0.5 mg/mL ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and retinoic acid and displayed a mean diameter of 148 ± 2.08 nm, low PDI and zeta potential of -7.4 ± 0.62 mV. The contents were 98.8 ± 4.59% for ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and 102.02 ± 0.02% for retinoic acid. Encapsulation efficiency was close to 100% for both substances. The innovative films developed presented satisfactory characteristics regarding the parameters related to texture, flexibility and visual homogeneity, besides providing a recovery of the nanometric distribution profile in the evaluations by various analytical techniques. Formulations containing nanoencapsulated active substances were classified as "non-irritating", and formulations containing active substances in the form of nanoemulsions were classified as "mild irritation" and films as "moderate irritation". Thus, the polymeric film containing the polymeric nanocapsules developed showed promising results for use as facial masks

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterward, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed

Bionanotechnology to Save the Environment

Nanotechnology is the science of manipulating atoms and molecules in the nanoscale thousand times smaller than the width of a human hair. The world market for products that contain nanomaterials is expected to increase enormously in the future. The use of nanotechnology has stretched across various streams of science, from electronics to medicine and has also found applications in the field of cosmetics. How will this revolution impact our lifestyle and our planet? Very often the progresses of science, human knowledge and evolution of our lifestyle has been associated with devastating effects on our forests, oceans and more in general on our planet. The real challenge in the years to come is the sustainability of human evolution. The reader of this interesting book will discover how nanotechnology, and in particular nanomaterials derived from plant biomass and fishery’s waste, can improve the quality of our environment by reducing carbon emissions, improving the recycling of materials and even, in the long run, became a profitable business. Green nanotechnologies can be applied to a huge number of products ranging from intelligent textiles to smart drugs or functional polymers which can have a big impact on our daily lives, but nevertheless help us in saving our biodiversity and our planet. However, to fully achieve all these benefits, companies and scientists should be supported by National and International Agencies and Institutions in order to facilitate and support scientific development in this field allowing from one side the protection of intellectual property, but on the other giving accessibility of these technologies to emerging countries for improving the quality of life and the environment all over the world equally