Unsteady undular bores in fully nonlinear shallow-water theory

We consider unsteady undular bores for a pair of coupled equations of Boussinesq-type which contain the familiar fully nonlinear dissipationless shallow-water dynamics and the leading-order fully nonlinear dispersive terms. This system contains one horizontal space dimension and time and can be systematically derived from the full Euler equations for irrotational flows with a free surface using a standard long-wave asymptotic expansion. In this context the system was first derived by Su and Gardner. It coincides with the one-dimensional flat-bottom reduction of the Green-Naghdi system and, additionally, has recently found a number of fluid dynamics applications other than the present context of shallow-water gravity waves. We then use the Whitham modulation theory for a one-phase periodic travelling wave to obtain an asymptotic analytical description of an undular bore in the Su-Gardner system for a full range of "depth" ratios across the bore. The positions of the leading and trailing edges of the undular bore and the amplitude of the leading solitary wave of the bore are found as functions of this "depth ratio". The formation of a partial undular bore with a rapidly-varying finite-amplitude trailing wave front is predicted for ``depth ratios'' across the bore exceeding 1.43. The analytical results from the modulation theory are shown to be in excellent agreement with full numerical solutions for the development of an undular bore in the Su-Gardner system.Comment: Revised version accepted for publication in Phys. Fluids, 51 pages, 9 figure

Variational water-wave model with accurate dispersion and vertical vorticity

A new water-wave model has been derived which is based on variational techniques and combines a depth-averaged vertical (component of) vorticity with depth-dependent potential flow. The model facilitates the further restriction of the vertical profile of the velocity potential to n-th order polynomials or a finite-element profile with a small number of elements (say), leading to a framework for efficient modeling of the interaction of steepening and breaking waves near the shore with a large-scale horizontal flow. The equations are derived from a constrained variational formulation which leads to conservation laws for energy, mass, momentum and vertical vorticity. It is shown that the potential-flow water-wave equations and the shallow-water equations are recovered in the relevant limits. Approximate shock relations are provided, which can be used in numerical schemes to model breaking waves

Wave modelling - the state of the art

This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered. The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, nonlinear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, nonlinear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments

Theory of small aspect ratio waves in deep water

In the limit of small values of the aspect ratio parameter (or wave steepness) which measures the amplitude of a surface wave in units of its wave-length, a model equation is derived from the Euler system in infinite depth (deep water) without potential flow assumption. The resulting equation is shown to sustain periodic waves which on the one side tend to the proper linear limit at small amplitudes, on the other side possess a threshold amplitude where wave crest peaking is achieved. An explicit expression of the crest angle at wave breaking is found in terms of the wave velocity. By numerical simulations, stable soliton-like solutions (experiencing elastic interactions) propagate in a given velocities range on the edge of which they tend to the peakon solution.Comment: LaTex file, 16 pages, 4 figure

Generalized KdV Equation for Fluid Dynamics and Quantum Algebras

We generalize the non-linear one-dimensional equation of a fluid layer for any depth and length as an infinite order differential equation for the steady waves. This equation can be written as a q-differential one, with its general solution written as a power series expansion with coefficients satisfying a nonlinear recurrence relation. In the limit of long and shallow water (shallow channels) we reobtain the well known Korteweg-de-Vries equation together with its single-soliton solution.Comment: 17 pages, Latex, PACS: 47.20.Ky, 43.25.Rq, 47.35.+i, 03.40.Kf, 43.25.Fe, 02.20.Tw, MSC: 16W30, 17B37, 81R50, 35Q51, 34B15, 34L30, 76E3

Transcritical shallow-water flow past topography: finite-amplitude theory

We consider shallow-water flow past a broad bottom ridge, localized in the flow direction, using the framework of the forced SuGardner (SG) system of equations, with a primary focus on the transcritical regime when the Froude number of the oncoming flow is close to unity. These equations are an asymptotic long-wave approximation of the full Euler system, obtained without a simultaneous expansion in the wave amplitude, and hence are expected to be superior to the usual weakly nonlinear Boussinesq-type models in reproducing the quantitative features of fully nonlinear shallow-water flows. A combination of the local transcritical hydraulic solution over the localized topography, which produces upstream and downstream hydraulic jumps, and unsteady undular bore solutions describing the resolution of these hydraulic jumps, is used to describe various flow regimes depending on the combination of the topography height and the Froude number. We take advantage of the recently developed modulation theory of SG undular bores to derive the main parameters of transcritical fully nonlinear shallow-water flow, such as the leading solitary wave amplitudes for the upstream and downstream undular bores, the speeds of the undular bores edges and the drag force. Our results confirm that most of the features of the previously developed description in the framework of the unidirectional forced Kortewegde Vries (KdV) model hold up qualitatively for finite amplitude waves, while the quantitative description can be obtained in the framework of the bidirectional forced SG system. Our analytic solutions agree with numerical simulations of the forced SG equations within the range of applicability of these equations