Evaluatıon of some parameters affectıng embroıdery qualıty

Vezenje je ukrašavanje tekstila koji može biti raznih oblika uzoraka (organskih, anorganskih ili geometrijskih motiva) i različitih tekstura. U području tekstila i odjeće vezenje je značajna radna faza jer direktno utječe na izgled i troškove, kako vizualno tako i s obzirom na dizajn i proces izrade. U radu je prikazano općenito vezenje, te parametri koji utječu na kvalitetu veza i vezenja tekstila i odjeće. Određeni parametri su vrednovani u odnosu na standardne tipove vezenja. Za kvalitetu veza razmatrane su i podloge za vez. Podloge od netkanog tekstila, taljive podloge veza koje se termički otklanjaju, odnosno tale ili vodotopive podloge mogu biti prikladne za vezenje velikih površina za koje nije poželjno da budu debele i teške. Podloge, koje se ne mogu potpuno ukloniti s vezene površine, mogu se upotrebljavati za male površine vezenja kao kod vezenja logotipova.Embroidery is an important work step in Textile and Apparel sector, because it affects directly the appearance and the costs of both visually and the design and application process. This study offers generally information on embroidery first. Factors influencing the quality of embroidery applied to textiles and garments have been identified and these factors have been evaluated practically with a standard embroidery type. As a result, heat and water-soluble interlinings may be suitable for embroidery with large areas that are undesirable to be thick and heavy. Interlinings that cannot be completely removed from the embroidered area can be used for small embroidered areas such as the brand logo

A Methodology to Transform Small and Medium Companies to Lean Manufacturing Enterprises in Ecuador

The textile industry is an important foundation of Ecuadors economy because of its contribution through the generation of jobs for unskilled labor and tight integration with other industry such as the agricultural industry, livestock, plastics and chemistry. Within this sector is sub sector Apparel, which is taken as a reference and represents 27 percent of production in the Textile Industry. The project aims to develop a methodology to transform small and medium companies to lean manufacturing Enterprises. It seeks to define and evaluate administrative, production and service processes in a textile company which manufactures garment apparel, define problems in these processes, raise improvement plans and recommendations for themselves and determine a simulation model to search for the feasibility of the proposed improvement model designed. Some of the most important problems identified in the companies in this sector are the following: the high number of errors in production processes described informally by officials; a poor system for inventory control of raw materials; work in processes, finished products, production processes, and a disorganized workplace-office

Sculptured computational objects with smart and active computing materials

Thesis (Ph. D.)--Massachusetts Institute of Technology, School of Architecture and Planning, Program in Media Arts and Sciences, 2001.Includes bibliographical references (leaves 325-328).This thesis presents the creative, technological, and philosophical means and methodology, by which technology artists and researchers can materially and sculpturally transform physical computing technology from hard, remotely-designed, plastic shells, into intimately created, sensual computing objects and artifacts. It asserts that the rigid, square, and prefabricated physical materials of computing technology are a fundamental technological and artistic limitation to anyone who wishes to sensually transform physical computing technology, or develop a rich artistic vocabulary for it. Smart and active sculptural computing materials are presented as a solution to this problem. Practically, smart computing materials reduce the number of separate, rigid, and square prefabricated parts required to create physical computing objects. Artistically, active sculptural computing materials give artists and designers the ability to directly manipulate, shape, experiment with, and therefore aesthetically understand the real, physical materials of computing technology. Such active design materials will also enable creative people to develop a meaningful artistic relationship between physical form and computation. The total contributions of this thesis include a proposal for a future three-dimensional design/technology practice, a portfolio of sensually transformed expressive computational objects (including new physical interfaces, electronic fashions, and embroidered musical instruments), and the smart and active sculptural computing materials and processes (in this case smart textiles), which make that transformation possible. Projects from the design portfolio include: The Triangles, and its applications; Electronic Fashions, including the Firefly Dress and Necklace, New Year's Eve Ball Gown, and Serial Suit; The Musical Jacket; Electronic Tablecloths; and a series of Embroidered Musical Instruments with embroidered pressure sensors. Contributions from the supporting technical area include: the first fabric keypad (a row and column switch matrix), a new conductive yarn capable of tying and electrical/mechanical knot, an advanced process for machine embroidering highly conductive, flexible and visually diverse electrodes, an empirical model of complex impedance sensing, and a definition of and test for the machine sewability and flexibility of yarns. These contributions are presented in three sections: 1) the supporting arguments, and philosophy of materiality and computation behind this work, 2) the design portfolio, and 3) the supporting technical story.by Margaret A. Orth.Ph.D

Textile Society of America- Seventh Biennial Symposium 2000 WHOLE ISSUE

Approaching Textiles, Varying Viewpoints Proceedings of the Seventh Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America Santa Fe, New Mexico 2000 The papers are unedited and reproduced as submitted. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the author. Students and researchers wishing to cite specific authors are encouraged to contact those individuals, as many of these papers represent work in progress, or work which has been committed for publication elsewhere. Contents Prefac

Experimental Fabrication and Characterisation of Textile Metamaterial Structures for Microwave Applications

PhDThis thesis presents an investigation of fabrication technologies and electromagnetic characterisation of textile metamaterials in the microwave frequency range. Interdisciplinary in nature, the work bridges textile design practice and electromagnetic engineering. The particular ambition was to explore a number of surface techniques prevalent in the textile design field, and map their suitability for the construction of metatextiles for microwave operation. Two different classes of metatextiles, all-dielectric and dielectric with electrically conductive patterns, were examined. First, five structures of all-dielectric textiles and papers are reported; three textiles with graded embroidered and screen printed patterns, and two papers embellished with regular and irregular laser cut patterns. Permittivities for these materials were measured in a purpose-built test chamber and shown to be similar to permittivity ranges exhibited by solid discrete metamaterial cells previously reported in the scientific literature. Importantly these metatextiles were realised within one textile surface and one fabrication process, bypassing the need to assemble large numbers of isotropic material cells. This reveals the potential for rapid and low-cost manufacture of graded textile materials to produce anisotropic ground plane cloaks. Secondly, three studies are presented that examine the use of electrically conductive patterned textile materials in the design of metatextiles which exhibit negative refractive index over a narrow frequency band. A range of e-textile (electronic textile) fabrication technologies were explored to assess their suitability for prototyping splitring and wire arrays, resonating in a narrow region between 3 - 10 GHz. Designs utilised a repeated unit cell pattern on a two-dimensional textile surface and were subsequently pleated into the required three-dimensional structure. A small negative refractive index was achieved for an embroidered prototype at 4.9 GHz, and two ‘printed and plated’ prototypes at, 7.5 GHz and 9.5 GHz respectively. In summary the thesis demonstrates a set of guidelines for the fabrication of textile metamaterials for microwave frequencies, derived through a practice-led and interdisciplinary method based on material experimentation.Media and Arts Technology programme, EPSRC Doctoral Training Centre EP/G03723X/1

Becoming an 'Asli Karigar': The Production of Authenticity Among Old Delhi's Muslim Artisans.

Fieldwork for this thesis was undertaken with Muslim artisans who live and work in Old Delhi, India, between July 2006 and October 2007. These artisans are skilled in a form of embroidery, done with gold and silver metallic wires, known as zardozi. This craft emerged in India in conjunction with the rise of so-called Islamicate states beginning in the 13th century and zardozi was essential to the production of luxury goods of exquisite quality. Today, the high quality and intricate form of the craft is rarely patronised, while sub-standard work is being produced in the name of zardozi. With the liberalisation of India's economy in the early 1990s, competition from abroad and new opportunities afforded by the growing export market for handicrafts have accelerated the decline in high quality craftsmanship. These recent trends have meant that many highly skilled artisans are losing their sources of livelihood or are forced to produce low quality goods for a mass market. In my thesis, I argue that the marginal position of urban Muslim artisans runs much deeper than recent shifts in the global marketplace. This marginalisation can be located in their exclusion from the broader narratives of the Indian nation-state, whereby the rhetoric embedded in colonial and post-colonial discourses locates the authentic artisan and authentic crafts production in primarily rural and "Hindu" communitarian settings. In this context of marginalisation, I pose the following research question: How do urban Muslim artisans constitute themselves as real, authentic craft producers or, in their own words, as "asli karigar-s"? The broader theoretical objective of the thesis is to recover the possibility of "becoming subjects" in the spaces whereby normativity is aspired to and not necessarily where it is subverted or resisted. In the thesis, I locate various "sites" of performance where the real, authentic artisan is constituted, including the construction of the "Other" through language that distinguishes authentic from inauthentic; the incorporation of Islam into conceptions of ideal work practices; constructions of lineage through narratives situated in both linear and nonlinear temporal frameworks; and relations with the state - the largest patron of crafts in India - through encounters with government sponsored exhibitions and award competitions

Tissue Engineered Textiles: ‘Can the integration of textile craft with tissue-engineering techniques lead to the development of a new materiality for future design applications?’

As early as the nineteenth century scientists were considering the idea that we would be able to manufacture with living materials. What was once seen as a radical notion is now being made a reality in laboratories around the world and is drawing ever greater interest from designers as they realise what the potential offered by biotechnology could mean for future products, as well as regenerative medicine. This thesis presents an insight into how the integration of textile craft and tissue engineering techniques can lead to the development of a new materiality for future applications in both design and science. This PhD investigates one biotechnology in particular, tissue-engineering, and its impact on how and what we may design in the future. Tissue-engineering is a field that combines multiple disciplines including biology, engineering and material science. The aim of the field is to repair the body, by either improving or replacing parts. As a discipline, tissue-engineering is involved in trying to replicate and engineer structures found within the body, as a result those who design scaffolds need to have an understanding of form and architecture. Through experiments carried out in collaboration with the Tissue Engineering & Biophotonics laboratory at Kings College London, the research has produced scaffolds that demonstrate how cells can use textiles as cues to orientate themselves, how to direct that orientation and how to selectively control growth. The original contribution to knowledge in this research is the untapped possibilities within the realm of the bespoke, customised scaffolds. The PhD has explored the creation of hand-crafted, living, complex, dynamic architectures and utilising traditional textile techniques to produce a final collection of tissue engineered textile scaffolds. Alongside this, it presents new knowledge through the creation of a Materials Archive that provides a resource for future designers working within this emerging discipline