Mindful Stitch: Generating dialogue in and around the threads of wellbeing

This article investigates wellbeing and mindfulness within contemporary art and craft practice, exploring initial introductions by Jon Kabat-Zinn of mindfulness practices into modern westernised medicine as a group or independent outlet. 21st Century sociological observations suggest we are infected by the ‘Hurry Virus’ (Kickbusch, 2012). Studies into mindfulness practices through established services such as the NHS and Arts and Minds show how crafts can be used as a tool for slowing down pace of making/doing, influencing overall wellbeing. Mindful Stitch is a community derived workshop exploring hand embroidery as a mindful practice, using methods of social inclusion and outrospective empathy. Independent mindful craft practitioners, Kathryn Vercillo and Tara Jon Manning, show the benefits of mindfulness knit and crochet practices. Mindful Stitch addresses the gap in the research regarding hand embroidery as a mindful craft practice, catering for a wide audience, additionally welcomed to the 2013 conference The Subversive Stitch: Revisited, at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Textiles in three dimensions: an investigation into processes employing laser technology to form design-led three-dimensional textiles

This research details an investigation into processes employing laser technology to create design-led three-dimensional textiles. An analysis of historical and contemporary methods for making three-dimensional textiles categorises these as processes that construct a three-dimensional textile, processes that apply or remove material from an existing textile to generate three-dimensionality or processes that form an existing textile into a three-dimensional shape. Techniques used in these processes are a combination of joining, cutting, forming or embellishment. Laser processing is embedded in textile manufacturing for cutting and marking. This research develops three novel processes: laser-assisted template pleating which offers full design freedom and may be applied to both textile and non-textile materials. The language of origami is used to describe designs and inspire new design. laser pre-processing of cashmere cloth which facilitates surface patterning through laser interventions in the manufacturing cycle. laser sintering on textile substrates which applies additive manufacturing techniques to textiles for the generation of three-dimensional surface patterning and structures. A method is developed for determining optimum parameters for laser processing materials. It may be used by designers for parameter selection for processing new materials or parameter modification when working across systems

Hand knitting in a digital era.

This chapter seeks to develop an argument for a more nuanced language in our critical understanding of the cultural and contextual significance of hand knitting within contemporary craft practice, towards developing a clearer articulation of the intrinsic complexities within this craft practice set against emergent digital contexts, technologies and new modes of collaborative socially engaged practices. The physical activity of hand knitting is a relatively simple repetitive action that has often been described as requiring limited skill or ability. Knitting at its most basic can be described as the transformation of a linear thread into an interwoven layered construct, whether as a hand-knitted flat panelled jumper knitted on two pins or a complex multi panelled whole garment produced on a high-end computer controlled seamless 3D knitting machine. However, these basic actions and processes, the transformation of yarn into artefacts is not the whole story or the starting point of this chapter. Instead the author suggests deeper levels of complexity that are embedded within the hand knitting language informed by: haptic, temporal and cultural indices. There are greater levels of embodied tacit and experiential knowledge together with complex associations across culture[s] and customs that call for the development of a far more precise and appropriate language in contextualizing knitting against preconceptions of craft

Material relationships: the textile and the garment, the maker and the machine. Developing a composite pattern weaving system

This research brings together the disciplines of woven textile design, zero waste pattern cutting and fashion design to form the Composite Pattern Weaving system; an innovative approach to woven garment design and construction which assimilates textile and garment lay-plan design and construction to produce engineered zero waste and integrally shaped woven garments, containing multiple fabric qualities, from a single length of woven textile. The approach challenges conventional textile and fashion design processes and systems by adopting a holistic and simultaneous approach to the design and production of textile and garment components; facilitating the integration of functional and sustainable design strategies to enhance garment durability and longevity through the implementation of a multi-method lifecycle approach to design. This research adopts the Transitional Design Methodology; an alternative approach of working between traditional and advanced technologies which challenges the constraints of the two modes of production whilst capitalising on their advantages. This cyclical iterative approach emphasises the importance of the relationship between the maker, materials and the machine(s), whilst recognising the potential for a transitional dialogue and knowledge transfer between all aspects of hand and digital production. Employing both modes of production in parallel, the Transitional Design Methodology facilitates a reciprocal relationship whereby concepts, designs and ways of working evolve as the maker moves between modes. Through the production of zero waste woven garment prototypes using hand and digital weaving technologies, the research establishes new integral shaping techniques and woven garment construction methods to minimise material production, consumption and waste, and identifies some of the limitations of fully-fashioned and composite garment weaving. The garment prototypes embody the learning and knowledge derived through the application of the Transitional Design Methodology. They demonstrate the advantages of working iteratively between hand and digital modes of design and construction to produce innovative (and interconnected) design outcomes, to advance skills and processes, and enhance personal practice

Exploring expressive and functional capacities of knitted textiles exposed to wind influence

This study explores the design possibilities with knitted architectural textiles subjected to wind. The purpose is to investigate how such textiles could be applied to alter the usual static expression of exterior architectural and urban elements, such as\ua0facades\ua0and windbreaks. The design investigations were made on a manual knitting machine and on a CNC (computer numerically controlled)\ua0flat knitting machine. Four knitting techniques -\ua0tuck stitch, hanging stitches, false lace, and drop stitch - were explored based on their ability to create a three-dimensional effect on the surface level as well as on an architectural scale. Physical textile samples produced using those four techniques were subjected to controlled action of airflow. Digital experiments were also conducted, to probe the possibilities of digitally simulating textile behaviours in wind. The results indicate that especially the drop stitch technique exhibits interesting potentials. The variations in the drop stitch pattern generate both an aesthetic effect of volumetric expression of the textile architectural surface and seem beneficial in terms of wind speed reduction. Thus, these types of knitted textiles could be applied to design architecture that are efficient in terms of improving the aesthetic user experience and comfort in windy urban areas

Illustrated glossary of textile terms for composites

A glossary was developed to define textile terminology applicable to the manufacture of composites. Terms describing fabric structure were illustrated for clarity. Descriptive terms for defects from both textile and composites industry were included

Knitted architecture and wind: Designing loosely fitted architectural textiles for interaction with wind

Utilising the textile’s ability to adapt to external forces such as the wind could lead to the creation of new design expressions and functional features within architecture. Prompted by architectural potentials of textiles deliberately designed to move and flex, this thesis aims to explore and demonstrate how such knitted textiles could contribute to enriched aesthetic expression and improved performance of\ua0architectural elements placed in windy environments. A key part of the research is the interaction of textile and wind, viewing it as a source of energy or force that could be used, diffused, or directed - to enrich and create a more comfortable urban environment. As such, this work is positioned at the intersection of three knowledge areas: architectural design, knitted textile design, and wind engineering. A research by design approach is used to conduct quantitative and qualitative investigations with design prototypes as main vehicles of inquiry. Specifically, a hybrid method of design-based research is applied, involving artistic making and qualitative evaluations of the design prototypes as well as scientific methods featuring quantitative textile performance measurements. Both physical and digital prototypes are utilised to probe the geometric expressions of knitted textiles and investigate the performative features of different knitted textile designs in relation to their wind reduction capacity. The main finding from the quantitative part of the study, encompassing wind tunnel experiments, is that loosely fitted knitted structures efficiently reduce wind velocities and high-energy eddies. Along with this, the qualitative investigations, involving a series of diversely designed knitted architectural prototypes, show that knitted textiles can be applied to design three-dimensional architectural structures that are aesthetically diverse and have a dynamic, ever-changing expression. Finally, the developed framework for designing loosely fitted textiles for interaction with wind seeks to provide architects with guidance concerning important aspects of such design, including the workflows, tools, and evaluation methods

A System for Programming Anisotropic Physical Behaviour in Cloth Fabric

We propose a method to alter the tensile properties of cloth in a user defined and purposeful manner with the help of computer controlled embroidery. Our system is capable of infusing non-uniform stiffening in local regions of the cloth. This has numerous applications in the manufacturing of high performance smart textiles for the medical industry, sports goods, comfort-wear, etc where pressure needs to be redistributed and the cloth needs to deform correctly under a given load. We make three contributions to accomplish this: a decomposition scheme that expresses user-desired stiffness as a density map and a directional map, a novel stitch planning algorithm that produces a series of stitches adhering to the input stiffness maps and an inverse design based optimization driven by a cloth simulator that automatically computes stiffness maps based on user specified performance criteria. We perform multiple tests on physically manufactured cloth samples to show how embroidery affects the resultant fabric to demonstrate the efficacy of our approach