Location of Repository

Embroidered rhetoric: the social, religious and political functions of elite women's needlework, c.1560-1630

By Sophia Jane Holroyd

Abstract

This thesis focuses on the Elizabethan and Jacobean aristocracy and upper gentry to yield the first detailed study of the elite needleworking woman as fashioner of her social personage, and of the objects she produced as indices of social persona, religious conscience and political agency.\ud The first chapter explores how needlework mediates between wtiwomeann d their social context. It surveys the way in which needlework, both as practice and as object, functioned as a vehicle for projecting persona and personage into a social context which interpreted needlework according to complex value systems of personal virtue and the husbandries of conspicuous wealth. The chapter explores needlework as a site for intellectual expression. The theories developed in the first chapter are tested in a case study of Bess of Hardwick, whose textiles show her construction of a virtuous aristocratic persona proclaiming its self-assured place in the social hierarchy. \ud Chapter Two is the first study to consider the needlework of Elizabethan and Jacobean Catholics in the light of the Protestant proscription of iconic vestments. It recovers the history of lost needlework from English convents on the Continent, and of the English recusants' covert provision of vestments to Jesuit missioners. The first detailed case studs' of Helena Wintour's vestments reads Wintour's Jesuit-influenced Marian floral emblems and iconography alongside Hawkins's meditation handbook Partheneia Sacra to theorise Wintour's devotion to the Immaculate Conception, and explores the vestments' relationship to the liturgy and their iconographical importance to the Mass.\ud Chapter Three considers needlework gifts as political currency within patronage structures at the Elizabethan and Jacobean courts. Narrated with a contemporary vocabulary of grace, needlework gifts contribute to the construction of court-crown relations, symbolised by needlework gifts in Jacobean court masques. Through needlework gifts a `feminine commonwealth' availed itself of power structures at the court of James's consort that parallel his departments, and the women's political agency in a female political hierarchy is seen encoded within gifts of needlework in the Queen's Courts final masque. The case study uses Mary's needlework gifts to Elizabeth as an index of changes in their relationship. Mary's needlework joins parallel texts such as poetry, portraiture and planned masques in developing an iconographical vocabulary centring on the Judgement of Paris, with which diplomatic negotiations sought to clarify the Queens' relative positions

Topics: DA, NK
OAI identifier: oai:wrap.warwick.ac.uk:2356

Suggested articles

Preview

Citations

  1. (1998). 4n Ell: abethan Inheritance: The Harchi, lck Hall Tcxtiles (Londoný 404 National Trust,
  2. (1994). 4tienclitig to ff'onicn in Eal-11,, ý'foýkj-jj
  3. (1989). 4whologi, (Aldershot and Vermont- Scolar Press,
  4. (1966). A HISlog ofEccleslastical Drcss (London. Batsford,
  5. (1989). Britanna; or, A Garden of Heroical Devises, furnished and adorned with En7blemes and Impresa's of sundry natures (London - Dight, 16123 repr.
  6. (1968). by Edmond Sawyer 3 vols (London- Ward, 1725) Wither, George A Collection of Embleines. - Ancient and Modern,
  7. (1968). Calendared Papers A Calendar of the Shrewsbury and Talbot Papers I. n Lambeth Palace Library and the College of Arms, doi
  8. (1901). Countess of WariOck (1625-16 8): Hei- Famill, and Friends (London: Longmans,
  9. (1998). delivered to the conference on 'The Queen's Court- Elite Female Cultural Production and the Cultures of the Early Stuart Courts (1603-3-42)' (University of Warwick,
  10. (1970). Duadale, William, The Antiquities of Warwickshire Illustrated: Front
  11. (1962). English Reformations (Oxford.
  12. (1974). fairs of Slate: Augusta17 Satirical f erse, 1660-1714,7 vols (New Haven and London.
  13. (1994). Ferguson (Berkeley and London- University of California Press,
  14. Hackenbroch, Yvonne, English and other Needlework Tapestries and Textiles in the IriOn Unte7-177al, cr Collection (New Yorký
  15. (1984). Images qfa Oileeiv Swai-i iii Sixteetah-Ceiaw-)-Litei-awi-e (Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press,
  16. (1980). Inigo Jones: The 7heatre of the Stuart Court 2 vols (London: Sotheby Parke Bernet-, Berkely and Los Angeles- University of California Press,
  17. (1998). Inventing the Stuart Masque', in The Politics of the Stuart Court Masque, doi
  18. (1910). qf the 'Blite Nuns', or Order qf the Immaculate ('071CTP11017 of Our Lacýi' at Paris, 165S-ISIO, Publications of the Catholic Record Society, 8 (London- Whitehead,
  19. (1986). Quilligan and Nancy I Vickers (Chicago- doi
  20. Ralegh, Sir Walter, Histoiy of the World (London- Burre,
  21. (1986). Rapes of Lucrece: A Myth and its Transformation (Oxford. Clarendon Press, doi
  22. (1984). Rewriting file Renaissance: The Discourses of Sexual Dýffcrence in Early Modern Europe (Chicagoý University of Chicago Press, doi
  23. (1988). Roberts, Lewes, The Treasure of Traffike; or, a Discourse of Forraigne Trade (1641), in A Selection of Early English Tracts on Commerce, ed. by John Ramsay MacCulloch (London- The Political Economy Club, 1856)
  24. (1962). Robson, Thomas, The Biwish Hci-ald, ' 01% CýIbl)h'/ BeaiIii, (,,, s, ") vols 406 (Sunderland - Turner& Marwood, 1820), Rose, Elliot, Cases of Conscience: Alternatives open to Recusants and Puritans under Elizabeth I andJames I (London-
  25. Sarum 1443-1702, irah other DocitinenIS (Wiltshire Record Society: Salisbury, 1896) Taylor, John, The Needles Excelleiic. i,, 12'jl edn (London- Boler,
  26. (1904). the British Aliseuni, and etýcii here preservcd in the Public Record Of England,
  27. (1991). The Court of the First Stuart Queen, in The Mental Tf'orld of the Jacobean Court, ed. by Linda Levy Peck (Cambridge-
  28. (2000). The Early Modern Englishwoman- A Facsimile Library of Essential Works, Series 1. Printed Writings, 1500-1640. Part 2,13 vols (Ghent, Dooms, 1634- repr, Aldershot- Ashgate,
  29. (1998). The Effects of Economic and Social Developments in the Seventeenth Century upon British Amateur Embroideries, , ý, ith particular reference to the Collection in the National Niuseums of Scotland', unpublished masters thesis,
  30. The English Catholic Refugees oil the Continent, doi
  31. (1975). The Imagery of Ben Jonson's Masques of Blacknesse and Beautie', doi
  32. (1929). The Letter Books of Sir Amias Poulet Keeper ofMary Queen of Scots (London: Burns and Oates, 1874) Moufet, Thomas, The Silkwormes, and their flies. - Duel described in verse, by T y M[oufet? ], a Countrie Farmar, and an apprentice in Physicke (London: Ling,
  33. (2000). The WOMan 1f)-iter and English btci-ai-_v Hi. ýioij, 1380-1589 (Chicago and London- University of Chicago Press,
  34. (2001). Three Peaks Press,
  35. (1928). Wanklyn William, ed., Im, cniorics of ilic Landed GL'17tl-j': 1537-I""SO, Wore esters hire Historical Society n. s., 16 &. p. ]ý Arroxvsniith,
  36. (1957). yal Lacýv qf Hardwick and Cousin to King. Janies (London- Evre and Spottiswoode,

To submit an update or takedown request for this paper, please submit an Update/Correction/Removal Request.