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Melankolija u suvremenoj modi: slike-stanja-figure

By Tina Spahija

Abstract

U ovom radu cilj mi je istražiti stanje melankolije kao emocije koja u određenom trenutku osjećaj bijede, jada i nesreće pretvara u uzvišenost, sve je u tom trenutku prazno i hladno, a istovremeno ispunjeno i prekrasno. To je stanje u kojem uživamo u vlastitoj praznini, trenutak jednostavnosti, kao da su se sve emocije pretočile u jednu ultimativnu, osjećamo sve i ništa. Jasno je kako takvo stanje budi određeni trenutak u kojem se nađemo, te je moj cilj, pokušati istražiti stanje melankolije i njenu estetsku ulogu u različitim trenucima u kojim je ona probuđena. Melankolija često igra svoju ulogu u našem susretu s umjetnošću, te je često prisutna kao estetska reakcija na okolinu, čak i u svakodnevnim situacijama koje daju razlog melankoliji da se probudi. Ja ću se orijentirati više na ovu ulogu melankolije u susretu s određenom umjetnošću, od književnosti, slikarstva, glazbe, pa do filma i fotografije, te naposljetku suvremene mode. Moj fokus će biti na suvremenoj umjetnosti, modi i digitalnoj tehnologiji, s obzirom da se stanje melankolije, iako neizbježno i mnogo prije, no ne mnogo analizirano, očituje u već spomenutom svakodnevnom životu, te je njeno razumijevanje, prihvaćanje i uloga danas od ključne važnosti za razumijevanje identiteta u suvremenom svijetu i duhu vremena u kojem se nalazimo. Istražila sam niz autora, ponešto književnika, a ponešto filozofa, koji se bave ovim problemom, ali moj primarni cilj je obraditi radove pojedinih umjetnika, nekoliko modnih dizajnera, fotografa, te muzičara našega doba, koji ujedno međusobno surađuju, te kroz njihov rad pokušati dokazati veličinu melankolije kao estetske emocije..In this paper, I aim to explore the state of melancholy as an emotion that at some point transforms the feeling of misery and unhappiness into sublimity, everything at that moment is empty and cold, and at the same time fulfilling and wonderful. It is a state in which we enjoy our own emptiness, a moment of simplicity, as if all emotions have flowed into one ultimate, feeling everything and nothing at the same time. It is clear that such a state awakens a certain moment in which we find ourselves, and my goal is to try to explore the state of melancholy and its aesthetic role at the various moments in which it is awakened. Melancholia often plays a role in our encounter with art, and is often present as an aesthetic response to the environment, even in everyday situations that give rise to melancholy to wake up. I will focus more on this role of melancholy in the encounter with certain arts, from literature, painting, music, to film and photography, and ultimately contemporary fashion. My focus will be on contemporary art, fashion and digital technology, as the state of melancholy, although inevitably long before, but not much analyzed, is evident in the everyday life, and further more its understanding, acceptance and role which are crucial today for understanding the identity in the contemporary world and the spirit of the times we are in. I have researched a number of authors, some writers and some philosophers, who deal with this problem, but my primary goal is to analyse it on the works of individual artists, several fashion designers, photographers and musicians of our time, who also collaborate with each other and try to prove through their work the magnitude of melancholy as an aesthetic emotion

Topics: melankolija, emocija, stanje svijesti, povijest, budučnost, prostor, vrijeme, estetika, književnost, umjetnost, moda, tehnologija, zaborav, melancholy, emotion, state of mind, history, future, space, time, aesthetics, literature, art, fashion, technology, oblivion, TEHNIČKE ZNANOSTI. Tekstilna tehnologija. Dizajn tekstila i odjeće., TECHNICAL SCIENCES. Textile Technology. Textile and Clothing Design.
Publisher: University of Zagreb. Faculty of Textile Technology. Department of Fashion Design.
Year: 2020
OAI identifier: oai:repozitorij.unizg.hr:ttf_778
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