Wave runup over the steep rocky cliffs of Banneg Island, France

Abstract

International audienceThe wave runup is known to depend on the offshore wave conditions and the beach slope. While most field studies on wave runup have focused on low-to-mild sloping sandy beaches, runup measurements on steep and irregular rocky beach profiles are still very sparse. Hence, little is known on the physical processes affecting the wave runup in such environments, and the range of applicability of empirical runup formula requires further investigation. This study focuses on the steep (0.1 < tan β < 0.4) rocky cliffs of Banneg Island, a small island of the Iroise Sea occasionally flooded during extreme water level events. A statistical parameter for extreme runup is derived from the measurements of pressure sensors deployed in the intertidal zone. Deep water wave parameters and highresolution topographic data are analyzed concurrently with runup time-series in order to assess the dependence of the runup on hydrodynamic conditions and foreshore slopes. The wave runup is shown to be strongly related to the surf-similarity parameter times the offshore significant wave height. Given the large topographic variability of the beach profile, the method used to compute the beach slope is shown to strongly affects the results

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Last time updated on May 20, 2019

This paper was published in HAL - Normandie Université.

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